Three Bracelets. Flat geometric disks with tightly twined 18k and 22k golds. 1989. American jewelry designer Mary Lee Hu

American jewelry designer Mary Lee Hu
Born 1943 in Ohio, Mary Lee Hu wanted to become an artist since elementary school. She graduated from Cranbrook Academy of Art in 1965 and Southern Illinois University-Carbondale. Today, she is a many-awarded American artist, educator and innovative jewelry designer known for using textile techniques in woven wire jewelry. Permanent participant of national and world art, crafts and jewelry exhibitions, her works are exhibited in various museums. In particular, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Museum of Arts & Design in New York City, National Museum of American Art in Washington DC, The Victoria and Albert Museum in London, etc. Also, her works are in numerous private collections throughout the United States and internationally.
Traditionally, weaving and fabricating her abstract and geometric pieces by hand, Mary Lee Hu used 18 and 22 K gold and silver as textile. According to the designer, she began first exclusive experiments applying fiber techniques to metal in 1966. Noteworthy, that was the time of the Scandinavian dominance of smooth and polished surfaces in metal jewelry. Thus, Mary Hu’s jewelry was the complete opposite of the trend of that time.
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Fish brooch with charms. Silver tone textured metal, rhinestones, faux pearls. Brooch 6.5 cm, earrings 5 cm. 1980s. La Contessa vintage costume jewelry

La Contessa vintage costume jewelry
Born in 1960, Baltimore based designer Mary DeMarco has always wanted to be an artist. After receiving a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree from Towson State University and graduating from the Maryland College of Art, she continued her studies in Florence.
Returning home in the early 1980s, she took a job as a waitress at Hampden, but in her spare time she created jewelry from the old jewels she had at home. Colleagues at work appreciated the work of the designer and began to order jewelry for themselves and their friends. Soon, the business began to generate income and motivated her to start doing jewelry professionally. She worked in local jewelry workshops, but she thought about starting her own business.
William Wolfe supported his wife’s aspirations and they founded DeMarco-Wolfe, Ltd with the La Contessa jewelry brand. Starting a family business in their home in Charles Village, they soon moved to a mall, bought the necessary equipment, and hired a few people. Exquisitely handcrafted, La Contessa jewelry was sold successfully in department stores and boutiques in all states. Created in the 1980s-90s pieces are especially valuable for lovers and collectors of vintage jewelry.
Incorporated on Monday 13th January 1986, DeMarco-Wolfe, Ltd is still active.
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Cherub heart shaped earrings. 24 K gold. 1980s. Susan Shaw vintage costume jewelry

Susan Shaw vintage costume jewelry
The history of the American jewelry brand Susan Shaw began in 1979 in Texas. Initially, it was a family business, where Susan was in charge of creative work, and her husband Eric managed the company’s affairs. Today, Ryan, one of Susan and Eric Shaw’s two sons, continues the family business. Incorporated in 1982, Susan Shaw, LLC (previously known as Susan Shaw Interior Design Inc and Eric & Susan Shaw partnership) sells its products in thousands of boutiques in every state and worldwide.
An interior designer by training, Susan Shaw began creating jewelry in her home workshop in San Antonio, Texas. The designer relied on her artistic taste and impressions from her trips to Europe. Inspired by the beauty of nature and details of architecture, the designer created jewelry by hand. Initially, she used available materials, and then used gold, silver, pearls and semi-precious stones. Noteworthy, most of jewelry items include necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and no brooches.
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Head of a man in a turban gold tone cufflinks. 3 cm. 1960s. Swank vintage jewelry for men

Swank vintage jewelry for men
The history of the Swank jewelry brand began at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, in Attleboro, Massachusetts. Ironically, famous throughout the world as a manufacturer of men’s jewelry, the company began as a manufacturer of jewelry for women. Founded by Samuel M. Stone and Maurice J. Baer in 1897, the Attleboro Manufacturing Company produced women’s jewelry.
In order to expand business into new markets, Baer launched “Baer and Wilde” in 1908. Made by Baer and Wilde the Kum-A-Part cuff button in 1918, became a success and led to significant growth for the company. Since that time the company focused on the manufacture of men’s jewelry. In particular, collar buttons, tie clips, pins and collar holders, chains, and other men’s jewelry items. This very kind of jewelry appeared in a 1927 print advertisement under the Swank label.
Officially registered in 1936, the Swank jewelry trademark gave name to the whole corporation – Swank Products, Inc., and later Swank Inc. headquartered at 90 Park Avenue, New York, New York 10016.
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Bow ribbon sterling silver pin. 1990s. Marie Claire vintage costume jewelry

Marie Claire vintage costume jewelry

Despite the fact that the history of Marie Claire jewelry began only in the late 1990s, the brand itself has a rather long history. First published in France in 1937, the monthly women’s magazine Marie Claire has become a world famous brand. The name of the magazine comes from the title of the novel by Marguerite Audoux – L’Atelier de Marie-Claire (1920). French readers flocked to the newsstands to buy the next fresh issue of this magazine, which was a huge success.
However, in 1942, the authorities of the German occupation in France stopped the publication of most of the magazines, including Marie Claire. The publication of the magazine resumed only in 1954.
In 1976, Marie Claire founder, Jean Prouvost handed over his business to his granddaughter Evelyn. She began to cooperate with L’Oréal, and in 1994 with the American company Hearst. On the 50th anniversary of Marie Claire, Vanessa Paradis graced the cover of the iconic magazine.
The French brand owned several trademarks for the production of a variety of goods – from umbrellas and bags to sunglasses and optics. In addition, Marie Claire owned 2 trademarks for the production of accessories and jewelry. Among them, in particular, MC Marie Claire by Marie Claire Album, and MC Marie Claire. Both trademarks ceased to exist in 2011 and 2006 respectively.
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Squirrel brooch. Gold tone alloy, faux pearl, rhinestones. 5.5 cm. 1990s. Dana Buchman vintage costume jewelry

Dana Buchman vintage costume jewelry
Founded in 1987 by American fashion designer Dana Buchman, DB was an upscale menswear and womenswear brand.
Born and raised in Memphis, Tennessee, Dana Buchman graduated from White Station High School in Memphis, Rhode Island School of Design, and St. Martin School of the Arts. After graduation, Dana Buchman became creative director at Ellen Tracy’s (clothing manufacturer since 1949).
In 1982, Buchman joined the corporation of American designer Liz Claiborne. After five years with Liz Claiborne, Buchman launched her eponymous collection under the Liz Claiborne Corporation.
In addition to clothing, Buchman launched DB costume jewelry collection. Among dozens of trademarks owned by Dana Buchman, there were three jewelry trademarks. First one, owned by Kate Spade & Company LLC, was active from 1997-2009, and second trademark “Dana Buchman luxe” owned by L.C. Licensing Inc, New York, 1997-2000. The third trademark – Diva Dana Buchman (2006-2007).
Noteworthy, most Dana Buchman jewelry pieces were manufactured in China.
In 2011, Liz Claiborne sold the Dana Buchman brand to Kohls (largest department store chain in the United States).
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Flower design belt buckle of gold tone. 1980s. Dotty Smith vintage costume jewelry (1976-2001)

Dotty Smith vintage costume jewelry (1976-2001)

The history of the American jewelry brand “Dotty Smith” began in 1976 in Lakeville, Connecticut. Officially registered in 1978, the trademark ceased to exist in 2001. Its owner, Doreen Smith Segal (born 1945), ran her private company Dotty Smith Co Inc from 1981 until her retirement in 2010.
Dotty Smith jewelers have traditionally used gold tone metal alloys, enamels, rhinestones and faux pearls. The markings on the back of each piece include “Dottie Smith” in capital letters or fancy script.
Noteworthy, Doreen Segal owned four trademarks for the production of various goods, from leather belts and scarves, to skirts and blouses. However, her main activity was the manufacture of jewelry – pins, necklaces, belt buckles, earrings and bracelets. In addition, under her trademark “Mr. Smith” from 1982 to 1990, jewelry for men was produced – money clips, cufflinks and tie bars.
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