Jewellery Kaleidoscope

Jewelry trademark history

American jewelry designer Mary Lee Hu

American jewelry designer Mary Lee Hu

Three Bracelets. Flat geometric disks with tightly twined 18k and 22k golds. 1989. American jewelry designer Mary Lee Hu

American jewelry designer Mary Lee Hu
Born 1943 in Ohio, Mary Lee Hu wanted to become an artist since elementary school. She graduated from Cranbrook Academy of Art in 1965 and Southern Illinois University-Carbondale. Today, she is a many-awarded American artist, educator and innovative jewelry designer known for using textile techniques in woven wire jewelry. Permanent participant of national and world art, crafts and jewelry exhibitions, her works are exhibited in various museums. In particular, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Museum of Arts & Design in New York City, National Museum of American Art in Washington DC, The Victoria and Albert Museum in London, etc. Also, her works are in numerous private collections throughout the United States and internationally.
Traditionally, weaving and fabricating her abstract and geometric pieces by hand, Mary Lee Hu used 18 and 22 K gold and silver as textile. According to the designer, she began first exclusive experiments applying fiber techniques to metal in 1966. Noteworthy, that was the time of the Scandinavian dominance of smooth and polished surfaces in metal jewelry. Thus, Mary Hu’s jewelry was the complete opposite of the trend of that time.

22 Gold necklace

22 Gold abstract design piece

American jewelry designer Mary Lee Hu

Abstract design 22 K gold and copper necklace

Abstract design 22 K gold and copper necklace

Bracelet. 18k and 22k golds; twined. 1988

Bracelet. 18k and 22k golds; twined. 1988

Centipede twisted silver wire jewelry piece. 1967

Centipede twisted silver wire jewelry piece. 1967

Choker. Fine and sterling silver wire, 14k gold. 1984. Exhibited in the 1984

Choker. Fine and sterling silver wire, 14k gold. 1984. Exhibited in the 1984

Collar choker. 18k and 22k woven golds; diagonal weave in three dimensions. 1985

Collar choker. 18k and 22k woven golds; diagonal weave in three dimensions. 1985

Filigree silver necklace

Filigree silver necklace

Gold knitted earrings

Gold wire knitted earrings

Fine and sterling silver copper necklace. 1978. Indiana University Art Museum

Fine and sterling silver copper necklace. 1978. Indiana University Art Museum

Insect sterling silver wire brooch. 1967

Moscito Insect sterling silver wire brooch. 1967

Neckpiece #26. Formed of sterling silver wires wrapped with 14k gold. From the collection of Yale University Art Gallery. 1976

Neckpiece #26. Formed of sterling silver wires wrapped with 14k gold. From the collection of Yale University Art Gallery. 1976

Ribbon gold choker

Ribbon gold choker

Wave design gold brooch pendant

Wave design gold brooch pendant

Swirl design gold necklace

Swirl design gold necklace

Ribbon wire sculptural brooch. 1967

Ribbon wire sculptural brooch. 1967

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