Robert and John Rubel jewellery

Robert and John Rubel jewellery
1940s poster. Robert and John Rubel jewellery

Robert and John Rubel jewellery
Born in the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the late 1800s, brothers Robert and John Rubel created high jewelry pieces in their workshop in Hungary. In 1915, they moved to Paris and began creating under the name Rubel Freres.
The Rubel brothers set up a jewelry workshop near one of the five “royal squares” of Paris, the famous Place Vendome. The place was famous for its jewelry boutiques, including Chanel headquarters, Cartier and Chaumet. Also, since 1934, the house number 21 belongs to the fashion house of Elsa Schiaparelli.
Noteworthy, Van Cliff & Arpels quickly became their customer and part of their production.
Thanks to the extraordinary skills and craftsmanship, the company enjoyed success, having opened branches in Paris and London. When Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first workshop and store in New York City in 1939, the Rubel brothers moved there too.

Ballerina brooch of gold with diamonds, rubies and sapphires. 1945
Ballerina brooch of gold with diamonds, rubies and sapphires. 1945

However, in 1943 they stopped their collaboration with Van Cleef, and opened their own business at 777 on Fifth Avenue. They began selling their own designs as John Rubel & Co. The firm became nationally famous after developing a ballerina-shaped brooch. Within 3 years they had become as iconic and fashionable as some other jewelry brands like Cartier and Boucheron.

Robert and John Rubel jewellery

One day, Rubel spent time in a Latin American bar on the east side of Manhattan. He sketched the female silhouette of a flamenco dancer on the corner paper tablecloth. The next day, he showed the drawing to VC & A’s chief designer Maurice Duvalier, who immediately accepted the design. It was in 1940. However, Van Cliff & Arpels produced the first ballerina brooch only in 1945.

Unfortunately, the WWII had undermined the jewelry business and the diamond trade of Rubel brothers. The company ceased to exist late in 1940s. Today, prices on vintage jewels found on the second market at auctions rise very high.
Noteworthy, Sophie Mizrahi-Rubel, heiress of the Rubel family restored the company. The talented jeweler, she gained experience having worked for such prestigious brands as Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cliff & Arpels. She decided to reboot the iconic brand in 2015.

Dancing flower 1943 poster
Dancing flower 1943 poster
Brooch-dancer of gold with diamonds, rubies and sapphires. 1945
Brooch-dancer of gold with diamonds, rubies and sapphires. 1945
14 K Gold compact, gold cigarette case, silver compact with gold and ruby ornament, gold cigarette case with sapphires. $20 000
14 K Gold compact, gold cigarette case, silver compact with gold and ruby ornament, gold cigarette case with sapphires. $20 000

Robert and John Rubel jewellery

18 karat gold and diamond bracelet-watch, circa 1940
18 karat gold and diamond bracelet-watch, circa 1940
Brooch. Flowering branch set with coral and turquoise cabochons, accented with 25 diamonds, mounted in 14 karat gold, 1945
Flowering branch Brooch. Coral and turquoise cabochons, 25 diamonds, 14 K gold, 1945
Composed of stylized bow-shaped links of openwork form resembling lace, set with diamonds, accented by round rubies, circa 1945
Stylized bow-shaped links of openwork form resembling lace, set with diamonds, accented by round rubies, circa 1945
Coral and Turquoise 18 K gold stick pin
Coral and Turquoise 18 K gold stick pin
Set with rubies and diamonds pair of brooch and pendant
Set with rubies and diamonds pair of brooch and pendant
Stylised flower brooch. Turquoise cabochons, rubies, brilliant-cut diamonds. 1940s
Flower brooch. Turquoise cabochons, rubies, brilliant-cut diamonds. 1940s
The openwork circular motif of floral and foliate design, set with 193 round diamonds, signed John Rubel Co
Floral and foliate design, set with 193 round diamonds, signed John Rubel Co
14 K Gold compact, gold cigarette case, silver compact with gold and ruby ornament, gold cigarette case with sapphires
14 K Gold compact, gold cigarette case, silver compact with gold and ruby ornament, gold cigarette case with sapphires
Diamond necklace - Baguette, round and marquise diamonds. Flexible platinum mounting with alternate links studded with diamonds. $22.500
Platinum Diamond necklace. $22.500
Diamond, diamond and sapphire, sapphire bracelets
Sapphire and diamond bracelets
Five rose leaves of diamond with two round and three pear shaped diamonds. Sapphire platinum diamond ring 16.72 carats. Diamond wheat clip
Five rose leaves of diamond. Sapphire platinum diamond ring 16.72 carats. Diamond wheat clip
Jewelry items published in 1940s brochure
1940s brochure
La Fourragere - A creation of John Rubel. Two clips of diamonds, rubies, sapphires mounted in gold with snake-chain studded with flowers of rubies and sapphires. $2275
La Fourragere Two clips of diamonds, rubies, sapphires mounted in gold with snake-chain studded with flowers of rubies and sapphires. $2275
Page from brochure about John Rubel diamond collection
Page from brochure
Round, square, pear-shaped diamond rings
Diamond rings
Ruby necklace - Gold chain studded with diamonds, with pendants of baguette and round stones, ending in twenty-one rubies, beautifully matched in color and graduated in size
Ruby and diamond necklace
Sapphire and diamond clips, diamond clip, diamond and sapphire bracelet
Sapphire and diamond clips and bracelet
Snowflake diamond earclips, ruby and diamond clip, ruby spray with diamonds, dahlia diamond clips
Snowflake earclips. Ruby, diamond. Dahlia diamond clips
Vintage brochure
Vintage brochure

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