Kaleidoscope effect

Jeweled face mask brooch. Silver tone metal alloy, Austrian crystal rhinestones. 1950s. Joseph Wiesner vintage costume jewelry

Joseph Wiesner vintage costume jewelry
Born in Germany, Jewish jeweler Luther Joseph Wiesner emigrated to the United States during the WWII, in the early 1940s. After settling in New York, Joe established contacts with local jewelers, and fulfilled orders for famous jewelry companies of the time.
However, one of the deals (in 1949), according to which he was supposed to make gold items for Genuth, led to fatal consequences. Weisner was charged with violating the Gold Reserve Act of 1934 and even fraud. Lawsuits that lasted from 1952 to 1954, ended with a two-thousand-dollar fine and even the arrest of Joseph. The successful costume jewelry business, which began at Fifth Avenue of New York City in the 1940s, ceased to exist in November 1954 in connection with the arrest of Wiesner.
Wiesner’s pieces are distinguished by their exquisite classic design, an abundance of sparkling Austrian crystals, reminiscent of Eisenberg’s pieces and are highly collectible. Product marking includes “Wiesner”, “Joseph Wiesner”, “Joseph Wiesner, N.Y.”, and «Astra». Lux class handcrafted costume jewelry was sold in gift cases with silk lining, like expensive fine jewelry.
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Black enamel gold tone rhinestones bow brooch. Signed Puccini vintage costume jewelry

Signed Puccini vintage costume jewelry
The history of Puccini costume jewelry brand spans over 60 years and is associated with two companies. In particular, 5th Avenue NY, New York based company Puccini Jewels Inc. and Montreal, Canada corporation Manufacture De Bijoux Keyes Inc.
American costume jewelry brand Puccini appeared in February 1960. Registered officially in 1962, the company manufactured costume jewelry until 1999, and ceased to exist in 2003.
Montreal, Canada based corporation Manufacture De Bijoux Keyes Inc. (owner Issie Fisher) registered Puccini jewelry trademark in 1971.
High quality Puccini jewelry demonstrates classic and Art Deco styles. Traditionally for its time, both jewelry companies used alloys of gold and silver tones, gilding, enamels and rhinestones.
Noteworthy, the marking style of these companies differs. In particular, American pieces have marking PUCCINI in capital letters, while Canadian marking includes “Puccini” in script, and sometimes “Made in Canada”.
By the way, there is Puccini gold and diamond jewelry brand in Penang, Malaysia, but it has nothing to do with the Puccini vintage costume jewelry brand.
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Pink roses bouquet brooch. Silver and gold tone alloy, enamel, rhinestones. 1970s. Signed L-S vintage costume jewelry

Signed L-S vintage costume jewelry
The history of L-S jewelry began in 1931, when New York, N.Y. based company Levine-Simson Inc, registered their trademark. The company manufactured costume jewelry for more than five decades, with short break during 1940s. The renewed trademark registered in 1947 and 1962, ceased to exist in 1988.
Vintage costume jewelry of this brand is distinguished by high quality workmanship, an abundance of rhinestones and gold-tone metal. Traditionally, the marking includes two capital letters L – C on a rectangular base, and without a copyright sign.
Noteworthy, decorations created by this company are often confused with other brands. And this is not surprising, since there are no less than ten trademarks with the same initials LS. In particular, LS Louis Stern, LS Lauren Spencer, LS Laurence Seegers (1973-1998), LS (Lee Sands) and even modern jewelry brands with the same initials. However, the style of marking of all these companies is completely different, not to mention the style of the jewelry itself.
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Geometric design brooch pin. Zircon, sterling silver. 1965. Kultaseppa Salovaara vintage silver jewelry

Kultaseppa Salovaara vintage silver jewelry
The largest precious metals companies in Turku operating in the 1960s and 1970s were Auran Kultaseppä, Kultateollisuus, Kupittaan Kulta, Turku Hopea, and more. There were also several smaller companies, many shops and workshops in the area. At its best, more than a thousand people worked in precious metals companies in Turku and won numerous international awards. One of these renowned companies was Kultasepät Salovaara (Kultasepät means goldsmith).
Finnish hereditary goldsmith Veikko Salovaara founded his family business Kultaseppa Salovaara in 1953 in Kaarina, neighbouring town of Turku. Among his ancestors, to name a few, were goldsmiths Markus Eliel Salovaara (1904 – 1993) and Armas Artturi Salovaara (November 19, 1883 – May 1, 1937).
Besides, most notable designers worked for the company, which in 1960-70s employed about one hundred silversmiths. One of them was Jorma Laine (1930-2002), who also worked for Hopea jewelry company. She signed her pieces with her name and added the company stamps. Noteworthy, Veikko Salovaara himself created his jewelry line under the name of Kalevi Sara.
Veikko Salovaara retired in 1988 and later sold his company.
Renowned and collectable, Salovaara handcrafted jewelry shows high quality and the use of silver, gold, bronze and natural gems. The marking includes the image of a Polar Bear on an Iceberg – the company’s logo, and traditional Finnish stamps. Among them – crown for Finland, letter and number for year (e.g. G7 for 1960, M7 – 1965, H7 – 1961, etc.), and the city mark for Turku.
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Clown brooch movable legs pendant. Gold plated metal alloy, green and blue enamel. 5 cm. 1980s. Signed H.I. vintage costume jewelry

Signed H.I. vintage costume jewelry
Vintage pins, bracelets, pendants and brooches made by this company are extremely rare, and the history of the H.I. trademark is shrouded in mystery. However, it is known that the trademark existed for no more than a decade, in the period 1980-1990s. Noteworthy, this brand is related to the famous jewelry company “R. Mandle”.
Renowned hereditary jeweler Robert N. Mandle registered his own company “R. Mandle” in 1956 and owned the company until his retirement in 1990. He used to sell out his invaluable jewelry molds, which later appeared as brooches and pins signed by other manufacturers. Among them, in particular, was Providence based jewelry company which labeled its jewelry pieces with two uppercase letters H.I. (cursive fancy fonts), withought a copyright sign.
The quality hand-made costume jewelry of this brand dates back to the 1980s and is therefore considered vintage. In the manufacture of these figural pieces, craftsmen traditionally used gold-tone metal alloys, gilding, bright enamels and rhinestones. Also, the most notable design of this brand – multicolored clown pins handcrafted with articulated movable parts.
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Theatrical mask brooch. Gold tone metal alloy, Swarovski crystals. Fifth Avenue collection. 1990s. Signed Butler vintage costume jewelry

Signed Butler vintage costume jewelry
The history of the Canadian costume jewelry brand Butler began more than 30 years ago, in 1988, when the married couple Jay and Betty Butler decided to create their family business. The creative duo began handcrafting beautiful pieces of jewelry and sold them at markets, exhibitions, and home parties. Over time, the business expanded and the company was able to employ craftsmen from different countries. In addition, the grown up sons, who used to help their parents, joined the business as professional gemologists and goldsmiths.
Noteworthy, the trademark Butler Gem Fifth Avenue Collection registered in 1988 and located in Saskatchewan, Canada, existed until 1998. Vintage handmade pieces created in this period show exquisite designs and high quality. Traditionally, Butler masters used metal alloys of gold tone, enamel, Swarovski crystals, fine rhinestones, faux pearls, and natural gems. The marking includes the word Butler in a rectangular frame, and/or FAC (Fifth Avenue Collection).
Today Fifth Avenue Collection Ltd. is an international direct sales company with more than 20,000 jewellers throughout the world. The president of the company is Jay Butler.
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Scarab stones 12 K gold filled circle brooch, clip on earrings and bracelet. 1960s. Karen Lynne vintage costume jewelry

Karen Lynne vintage costume jewelry
The history of Karen Lynne jewelry trademark began in 1954, when Charles Rothman established his family business – jewelry company Charles Rothman Co. Inc. in Providence, Rhode Island. His son Robert Hillel Rothman (1927 – 2019) joined the family business. The same year Charles registered two jewelry trademarks – “Lynda Sue Key Quality” and “Karen Lynne Key Quality”. Noteworthy, before founding his company, Charles Rothman had worked in Goldstein Poland Co. jewelry company.
Traditionally, the company made high quality handcrafted costume jewelry with the use of 12 and 14 K gold, sterling silver, genuine jade, ivory, scarab stones and cultured pearls. From the very beginning, the marking included the initials KL with dots and the purity of gold. Sold in big stores, their classic circle pins, carved ivory roses, filigree cameos, jade bracelets, necklaces, and earrings were very popular in the 1960-70s.
The Karen Lynne trademark ceased to exist in 1994.
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