Kaleidoscope effect

Vintage 18k Yellow Gold Diamond Bow Brooch Pin. Parisian jewelry house Chaumet

One of the oldest, Parisian jewelry house Chaumet celebrates its 240th anniversary in 2020. Having begun its history in 1780, Chaumet became famous for its unique works for the court of Napoleon. Oriental-style products were made there using carved precious and semiprecious stones. In particular, jardiniere brooches with carved rubies, emeralds and sapphires, cosmetic cases with floral patterns in lapis lazuli and coral, etc. Discreet, strictly geometric jewelry, studded with diamonds and decorated with colored stones, were also present in their collections.
The founder of Chaumet House, Marie-Étienne Nitot, studied with the then-famous Aubert, jeweler of Marie Antoinette. In 1789, he opened his own store and attracted the attention of the French aristocracy. Soon, Nito becomes Napoleon’s personal jeweler and, by order of the emperor, creates a consular sword adorned with the famous Regent diamond.
Nito works with his son. The jewelry created by them – imbued with the spirit of magnificent luxury and symbolism of power. For the coronation of the emperor Napoleon, the jeweler made imperial regalia, an imperial sword, an imperial crown and a diadem.
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Roadrunner antique gold metal highly detailed brooch. Carved lucite green cabochon eye. 6,3 cm. 1950s. Ambassador vintage costume jewelry

Ambassador vintage costume jewelry
Unfortunately, there isn’t much information on the net about this brand, the founder, or the company which produced costume jewelry stamped Ambassador. According to some sources, in particular, vintage ads, the company actively worked in the 50-60s of the twentieth century in the USA. So far, signed Ambassador bijouterie is extremely rare and, as a result, is in high demand among collectors and fans of vintage costume jewelry. Noteworthy, the gold tone brooch in the shape of a Roadrunner with a green cabochon eye is the most widespread in the market of vintage bijouterie.
Traditionally, the jewelers of this brand used lucite, rhinestones, faux pearls, jade, carnelian, bronze metal and gilding.
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Melpomene (muse of tragedy) pendant brooch, 1891. Green biscuit porcelain, stucco molding, sterling silver. Wedgwood vintage porcelain jewelry

Wedgwood vintage porcelain jewelry
In the hands of Melpomene is the mournful mask that she holds as a sign of grief for her daughters. They symbolize life experience and reflect the idea that the whole world is a theater of the gods, and people in it only fulfill the roles prescribed to them.
Founded in 1759 by Josiah Wedgwood, the company became the innovator in porcelain manufacture and Wedgwood today is called the “father of English pottery.” The founder of the ceramics factory became the creator of exquisite cream faience coated with the finest glaze, as well as the unique ceramic material “Black Basalt” based on Egyptian clay. And his invention of new pottery under the name “Jasper” was described as the most important achievement in the history of ceramics, starting with the Chinese discovery of porcelain about 1000 years earlier. In addition, Josiah Wedgwood was the first to apply ceramic engraving. Also, he continued the John Dwight idea with false reliefs, and now we can admire the famous Wedgwood cameos.
But Wedgwood porcelain is not only dishes – brooches, pendants and medallions decorated with silver, gold, or polished steel, and shiny precious stones. The contrast between the sparkling rim and the delicate cameo inside was quite spectacular. Such brooches were especially popular in the first half of the 19th century.
Wedgwood porcelain is out of fashion and still enjoys great fame.
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Stunning nature inspired pendant with Japanese motif. Alexis Falize cloisonne enamel jewelry

Alexis Falize cloisonne enamel jewelry
French jeweller Alexis Faliz (1811-1898) was among the first jewelers to pay attention to the elegant stylization of the natural world inherent in Japanese art. The history of the famous brand began in 1932, when Alexis studied all aspects of the jewelry sphere: manufacturing, design, sales and accounting. In 1830s, he opens his own workshop. Faliz specialized in “artistic” jewelry: using semiprecious stones, fine metal work and enameling. He experimented with enamels, while learning from the most talented enamellers of the time. Later, often copied, his pieces aroused general interest due to the bright colors. Once he had already restored the production of Limoges enamels; now, from 1860 to 1865, he devoted himself to the study of the eastern technique of cloisonne enamel. In collaboration with Antoine Tard, a talented master of enamels, he made amazing jewelry with opaque enamels in frames made of matte gold. Traditionally, with innovative motifs inspired by Persian, Indian and, above all, Japanese art.
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Retro 1940s poster. Robert and John Rubel jewellery

Robert and John Rubel jewellery
Born in the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the late 1800s, brothers Robert and Jean Rubel created high jewelry pieces in their workshop in Hungary. In 1915, they moved to the fashion capital – Paris and began creating decorations under the name Rubel Freres. The Rubel brothers set up a jewelry workshop near one of the five “royal squares” of Paris, the famous Place Vendome. The place was famous for its jewelry boutiques located in Place Vendome, including Chanel headquarters, Cartier and Chaumet. Also, since 1934, the house number 21 belongs to the fashion house of Elsa Schiaparelli.
Van Cliff & Arpels quickly became their customer and part of their production. Thanks to the extraordinary skills and craftsmanship, the company enjoyed success, having opened branches in Paris and London. When Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first workshop and store in New York City in 1939, the Rubel brothers moved there too. However, in 1943 they stopped their collaboration with Van Cleef, and opened their own business at 777 on Fifth Avenue. They began selling their own designs as John Rubel & Co. The firm became nationally famous after developing a ballerina-shaped brooch. Within 3 years they had become as iconic and fashionable as some other jewelry brands like Cartier and Boucheron.
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The Lord watch between me and thee, when we are absent one from another. – Genesis 31:49 of the Bible. Traditional heart brooch with engraving. Victorian era Mizpah jewelry with sense

Victorian era Mizpah jewelry with sense

Founded by two brothers in England, Mizpah jewelry company produced jewelry that symbolises an emotional bond and in translation means “I will always be with you.” These are spiritual ornaments with a meaning, intended for beloved and dear people – relatives, friends, and soulmates. The production of the company included chains, necklaces, engraved medallions and brooches with names, memorable dates and oaths. MIZPAH products were very popular among couples in the Victorian era. Traditionally made of silver, this antique jewelry is very much appreciated by collectors.
Mizpah is an amulet, a symbol of the emotional connection between parting people (even if one of them died). According to belief, it ensures the safe return of a loved one. The image of ivy on the decoration symbolized immortality, unfading love, fidelity, friendship and memory.
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Moth Large antique rare brooch with a crystal insert. Made in the style of Art Nouveau. 1890. C&R marking. 6.3 cm. C&R Hettel costume jewelry

Antique C&R Hettel costume jewelry

Jewellery by Charles R. Hettel is very extremely rare and desirable for collectors of vintage costume jewelry. Unfortunately, there is very little information about the company, except the date of its creation in 1890 in St. Louis, Missouri.
Initially, the company was engaged in the manufacture of watches, as well as jewelry decorations. Traditionally Victorian or Art Deco style made of gold and silver, it was high quality jewelry with diamonds. However, the era of the Great Depression (late 1920s and early 1930s) forced the company to change the politics in order to stay afloat. In particular, the company launched the production of costume jewelry with the use of cheaper materials. Thus, the designers replaced diamonds with Austrian rock crystal, natural pearls with faux, and gold items became gilded of made of brass. Yet, excellent jewelry work remained unchanged.
According to sources, the company ceased to exist in 1940s, and the latest jewelry catalog of this brand was published in 1931.
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