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French jewelry designer Robert Goossens

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French jewelry designer Robert Goossens (30 January 1927 – 7 January 2016)

Sun face crampled gold clip. 5 cm. 1980s. French jewelry designer Robert Goossens (30 January 1927 – 7 January 2016)

French jewelry designer Robert Goossens (30 January 1927 – 7 January 2016)

Born 30 January 1927 in Paris, Robert Goossens became a 20th century jewelry fashion icon, best known as Monsieur Bijou. He received this nickname thanks to his sparkling jewelry made of rock crystal, artificial and semi-precious stones, which he successfully combined in design. In post-war Paris, the future designer successfully studied the methods of casting, engraving, chasing, processing semi-precious and artificial stones, working with gold and silver. While honing his skills in jewelry design, he often visited museums, inspired by the works of the Renaissance, the art of Byzantium and Malta. In addition, Goossens traveled a lot, bringing various natural stones from his trips, especially preferring rock crystal.
Gabrielle Chanel noticed the talented young designer in 1953. Thus began a fruitful collaboration with the Chanel fashion house, for which he created jewelry throughout his life. Goossens himself wrote that he spent a lot of time talking with Mademoiselle Chanel. She supported his desire for experimentation, and it was she who inspired Robert to work with interior design. So, Chanel was the first for whom Robert created interior items: mirrors, chandeliers and tables – including the famous table made of sheaves of wheat (he later repeated this design for Yves Saint Laurent in gilded bronze), as well as a crystal ball on a pedestal with three lions, which can still be seen in Chanel’s apartment on rue Cambon.

24 K yellow gold sunflower brooch for YSL. 1980s

24 K yellow gold sunflower brooch for YSL. 1980s

French jewelry designer Robert Goossens

Continuing his work with Maison Chanel after Coco’s death in 1971, he collaborated with her successor Karl Lagerfeld in the 1980s and 1990s. Goossens created original pieces for Coco in gold and natural stones, and his designs served as a model for Chanel’s jewelry designs.

Seashell design brooch. Made for Christian Dior perfume 'Dune'. Gilded metal, resin. 1987

Seashell design brooch. Made for Christian Dior perfume ‘Dune’. Gilded metal, resin. 1987

Also, in the 1970s, Goossens began working with YSL, for whom, on the advice of Saint Laurent’s muse Lulu de la Falaise, he created an African collection. Over time, Goossens began to produce absolutely all accessories for the YSL house – from pocket mirrors to perfume bottles. Their collaboration continued until 2002.

Goossens Paris maker's mark

Maker’s mark

Goossens collaborated with other fashion houses of that time – Yves Saint Laurent, Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, Cristobal Balenciaga and others. In addition, Guerlain, Rochas, Jean-Louis Scherrer, Thierry Mugler, Christian Lacroix and Sonia Rykiel asked him to create jewelry for their brands and design perfume bottles.
In 2005, when the 78-year-old Goossens was already retired, Maison Chanel bought “Goossens Paris” workshop and made it part of the Métiers d’Art division. The legendary Monsieur Bijou died at the age of 89, but his son Patrick and daughter Martina continued the business.

French jewelry designer Robert Goossens

Sun brooch. Silver and gold tone, multicolor rhinestones and crystals

Sun brooch. Silver and gold tone, multicolor rhinestones and crystals

Stud earrings of gold tone

Stud earrings of gold tone

Stars bracelet. Gold tone, clear resin

Stars bracelet. Gold tone, clear resin

Pearl cabochon clear rhinestones gold tone brooch

Pearl cabochon clear rhinestones gold tone brooch

Red glass textured gold tone earrings. Made for Yves Saint Laurent

Red glass textured gold tone earrings. Made for Yves Saint Laurent

Pansy flower gilded metal necklace for YSL

Pansy flower gilded metal necklace for YSL

Heart brooches pins. Multicolor rhinestone, gold tone. 1983, YSL

Heart brooches pins. Multicolor rhinestone, gold tone. 1983, YSL

Gold plated clip earrings

Gold plated clip earrings

Flower crumpled gold tone brooch pendant made for YSL

Flower crumpled gold tone brooch pendant made for YSL

Five pointed star dangle earrings, made for YSL in the 1980s. Gold tone, rhinestones

Five pointed star dangle earrings, made for YSL in the 1980s. Gold tone, rhinestones

Faux turquoise gold tone circle brooch pin. 1950s

Faux turquoise gold tone circle brooch pin. 1950s

Faceted resin gold tone bracelet for YSL

Faceted resin gold tone bracelet for YSL

Dangle earrings of yellow gold tone, red and blue glass. Made for Charles Jourdan

Dangle earrings of yellow gold tone, red and blue glass. Made for Charles Jourdan

Bar brooch of gold tone, art glass. 1950s

Bar brooch of gold tone, art glass. 1950s

Ancient coin design gold plated clip earrings

Ancient coin design gold plated clip earrings

Maker's mark

Maker’s mark