Kaleidoscope effect

Jewellery kaleidoscope

Luxury and splendor of Marina B high jewelry art

Luxury and splendor of Marina B high jewelry art

Heart-shaped emerald and diamond with onyx earclips. 1980s. Luxury and splendor of Marina B high jewelry art

Luxury and splendor of Marina B high jewelry art

Another company that reflected the spirit of the time and the tastes of modern consumers was the Marina B. House, founded in 1979 by Marina, daughter of Constantine Bulgari, who decided to leave the family business in Rome and found her own in Geneva. Marina believed that jewelry should be highly decorative, and she perfectly understood the desires of her contemporaries. Her catchy multi-colored pieces are easily recognizable and are copied by many jewelry companies. Committed to lively, unusual chromatic combinations, Marina Bulgari often used black and colorless elements to accentuate the hues of precious stones.

Blackened gold, black onyx and black mother-of-pearl in her products set off the shine of diamonds, the play of pearls and the bright or muted colors of precious stones.
Following her concept that jewelry should not only be suitable for both daytime and evening wear, but also match the color of the outfit, Marina began producing products in which it was possible to change precious stones.

Kingfisher earclips. 18 K gold, cabochon sapphires, yellow sapphires, rubies, onyx, diamonds

Kingfisher earclips. 18 K gold, cabochon sapphires, yellow sapphires, rubies, onyx, diamonds

Brooches and earrings were often “double-sided”, that is, the central stone was surrounded by a double-sided setting, which was turned over using a tiny mechanism, one surface of which was usually black – made of onyx or enamel – and the other completely covered with diamonds.

A gold necklace in the shape of a chain supporting a bell-shaped fringe. 1988

A gold necklace in the shape of a chain supporting a bell-shaped fringe. 1988

In the 1980s, the designer often used metal springs in the design of necklaces and bracelets, covered with precious metal. Marina made extensive use of this simple but ingenious invention to create neck jewelry with precious stones, which, in the fashion of this period, fit it perfectly. This is how Marina brought back the popularity of collars, necklaces that quickly went out of fashion at the beginning of the 20th century.

Blackened gold necklace with diamonds and earrings of the same design (French sea foam). 1985

Blackened gold necklace with diamonds and earrings of the same design (French sea foam). 1985

The most expensive jewelry in Western jewelry houses usually consisted of very rare and expensive stones in simple settings, allowing to appreciate all their best qualities. And mainly intended for buyers from the Middle East. Unsurprisingly, even in the 1980s, they were made in a traditional style with the sole purpose of displaying the beauty and size of the stones, usually accompanied by a gemological certificate. However, more innovative jewelers, in particular Constantino Bulgari and Marina, created unique pieces of soft rounded shapes, in which large and expensive gems of perfect cut and clarity were combined with small, contrasting colors.

Hallmarked Marina B 1987

Hallmarked Marina B 1987

Teardrop shaped bangle bracelet. Onyx, diamonds, citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines and blue topaz

Teardrop shaped bangle bracelet. Onyx, diamonds, citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines and blue topaz

From the beginning of her own business in 1980s to the late 1990s, she enjoyed a huge success. Used on international catwalks, and such fashionable resorts as Ibiza, St Tropez and St Moritz, her jewelry was also popular with movie stars. In particular, Sophia Loren is a fan of these jewelry pieces. Marina B’s style was many years ahead of the fashion of its time.

Yellow gold ring with citrine and topaz. 1985

Yellow gold ring with citrine and topaz. 1985

After leaving for Monaco in 1993, Marina B retired in the early 2000s. In 2019 Guy Bedarida became the new creative director of the company, continuing to honor the heritage of Marina B.

Luxury and splendor of Marina B high jewelry art

Emerald and diamond 18 K gold, black enamel earclips

Emerald and diamond 18 K gold, black enamel earclips

Fuji Yama earclips. Blackened gold hoops, 24 K gold, orange sapphires and diamonds

Fuji Yama earclips. Blackened gold hoops, 24 K gold, orange sapphires and diamonds

18K Gold, Diamonds, Sapphires, Fashion Earrings

18K Gold, Diamonds, Sapphires, Fashion Earrings

Blackened gold, 18 Karat Gold, Onyx, Mother-of-Pearl and Cultured Pearl Earclips

Blackened gold, 18 Karat Gold, Onyx, Mother-of-Pearl and Cultured Pearl Earclips

Blue sapphire diamonds gold earrings. 1987

Blue sapphire diamonds gold earrings. 1987

Diamond, Gold, Sapphire, Ruby and chalcedony Cocktail Fashion Ring

Diamond, Gold, Sapphire, Ruby and chalcedony Cocktail Fashion Ring

Gold, diamond, Sapphire, & Amethyst Cocktail Fashion Ring

Gold, diamond, Sapphire, & Amethyst Cocktail Fashion Ring

Heart shaped dangle earrings. Green citrine, 18K gold, onyx, diamonds

Heart shaped dangle earrings. Green citrine, 18K gold, onyx, diamonds

Long 13 cm dangle earrings. Cultured pearls, citrines, diamonds, yellow and blackened 18 K gold

Long 13 cm dangle earrings. Cultured pearls, citrines, diamonds, yellow and blackened 18 K gold

'Mitsouko' Japanese motif earrings. 18 K blackened gold, diamonds

‘Mitsouko’ Japanese motif earrings. 18 K blackened gold, diamonds

Scroll and wave motif earclips. Pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Detachable hoop, reversed may be worn as a brooch. 1987

Scroll and wave motif earclips. Pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Detachable hoop, reversed may be worn as a brooch. 1987

Swirl design earclips. 18 K white gold, diamonds

Swirl design earclips. 18 K white gold, diamonds

Teddy Bear, White & Brown Diamond, Gold, Cocktail Fashion Ring

Teddy Bear, White & Brown Diamond, Gold, Cocktail Fashion Ring

Bracelet. Gold, tourmalines, diamonds, black enamel. 1980s

Bracelet. Gold, tourmalines, diamonds, black enamel. 1980s

Signature

Signature