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Castellani antique style jewellery

Castellani antique style jewellery

Masterpiece of 19th century jewellery art – gold brooch with micromosaic. Castellani antique style jewellery

Castellani antique style jewellery
Fortunato Pio Castellani (1794-1865) became known as the pioneer of the revival of Greek and Etruscan styles. He produced his masterpieces in antique style in cooperation with his sons: Alessandro (1823-1883) and Augusto (1829-1914). By the end of the 1850s, Castellani’s workshop in Rome became a pilgrimage site for the British, who sought to obtain delightful gold ornaments with decorative motifs from the arsenal of classicism: shells, rosettes, urns, amphorae, rams, etc.
Noteworthy, Castellani reinterpreted the Greek and Etruscan styles in a new way. And before him the jewelers believed that nothing new could be learned from this period. Castellani also turned to the recent past, studied the methods of gold processing, but then set himself a difficult task: to discover the secret of Etruscan granulation. He managed to achieve impressive results and create a method, similar o that used by the Etruscans.

Gorgeous Castellani gold brooch on the motives of Christian iconograph. Precious stones, pearls

Gorgeous Castellani gold brooch on the motives of Christian iconograph. Precious stones, pearls. Castellani antique style jewellery

In 1870, Castellani announced that he had discovered the secret of the ancient Etruscans, studying the technique of working with gold in a remote village in the Apennines. Even if Castellani did discover the technique used by the Etruscans, for obvious reasons, he never described it. However, most likely, he simply worked in a similar technique, which made it possible to achieve a good result, but not the genuine subtlety and lightness of the original.

A brooch made of gold, decorated with Roman mosaics, on the back - signature 'vivas in Deo', and two intertwined 'C'. 1860

A brooch made of gold, decorated with Roman mosaics, on the back – signature ‘vivas in Deo’, and two intertwined ‘C’. 1860

In fact, Castellani got inspiration and copied ancient originals discovered during the autopsy of the tomb of Regolini Galassi in Cerveteri in 1836, as well as excavations of Vulci, Chiusi, Orvieto and Tarquinia. Also, Milos, Rhodes and Knossos made their contribution. In addition, Castellani always had access to the famous Campana collection, which included, among other things, hundreds of Greek, Etruscan and Roman ornaments of the highest quality: necklaces, diadems, brooches, hanging earrings, rings and bracelets, often with granulation and filigree.

A late 19th Century gold tone metal, micro mosaic brooch. 3,5 cm

A late 19th Century gold tone metal, micro mosaic brooch. 3,5 cm

The Castellani jewelers, thanks to their close friendship with Cavalier Campana, were able to form his collection. For documentary purposes, they recreated all the gold products that entered it. The Castellani workshop was in a privileged position with regard to the commercial reproduction of the ornaments from the Campana collection.

Castellani antique style jewellery

White doves Stunning micromosaic brooch. Castellani antique style jewellery

Fibulas, bracelets and fringed necklaces in the Greek style were in great demand among women of fashion. Accordingly, that maintained interest in the elegant products of Castellani. They also made brooches with Roman mosaics in the Byzantine spirit with religious Greek and Latin sayings, products with scarabs and diadems made of oak and laurel leaves.

Bow and arrows Cupid, and next - enamel heart. The motif of the tape, typical for this period. Gold bracelet with enamel, emeralds and diamonds. 1850

Bow and arrows Cupid, and next – enamel heart. The motif of the tape, typical for this period. Gold bracelet with enamel, emeralds and diamonds. 1850

Almost all their products Castellani marked with a monogram of two interlacing “C” soldered to the product. There are three types of Castellani signatures: it is a monogram in the center of the cartouche; just a monogram; and – the rarest – the monogram “ACC”, which, most likely, marked only the work of Alessandro Castellani.

Castellani antique style jewellery

A gold bracelet. 1860. Each link of the bracelet in the form of a typical Castellani motif, which he used in brooches

A gold bracelet. 1860. Each link of the bracelet in the form of a typical Castellani motif, which he used in brooches

A pendant in the form of a bulla, a typical discoid ornament, which in the Etruscans served as an amulet. The sample decorated with emeralds and rubies surrounded by patterns of gold wire. Italy. 1870

A pendant in the form of a bulla, a typical discoid ornament, which in the Etruscans served as an amulet. The sample decorated with emeralds and rubies surrounded by patterns of gold wire. Italy. 1870

A pendant made of gold with pearls, in the center - a cameo of turquoise with the image of Terpsichore, the muse of dances, on the reverse the signature of two interlaced 'C'. 1860

A pendant made of gold with pearls, in the center – a cameo of turquoise with the image of Terpsichore, the muse of dances, on the reverse the signature of two interlaced ‘C’. 1860

Antique style gold pendant

Antique style gold pendant

Castellani used Roman mosaics, often on the motives of Christian iconograph

Castellani used Roman mosaics, often on the motives of Christian iconograph

Circa 1850. Gold bracelet with enamel, pearls and diamonds

Circa 1850. Gold bracelet with enamel, pearls and diamonds

Decorated with micromosaic, gold brooch

Decorated with micromosaic, gold brooch

Etruscan Revival Brooch Late 19th Century

Etruscan Revival Brooch Late 19th Century

Gold bracelet in Etruscan style with carnelian scarves, copied from Egyptian originals, decorated with twisted wire and granulation. 1860

Gold bracelet in Etruscan style with carnelian scarves, copied from Egyptian originals, decorated with twisted wire and granulation. 1860

Gold bracelet with small pearls and cornelian. 1860-1865. In this product, Castellani used antique stones

Gold bracelet with small pearls and cornelian. 1860-1865. In this product, Castellani used antique stones

Gold bracelet, work by Castellani, I860

Made of Gold bracelet, work by Castellani, I860

Gold brooch with pearls, diamonds and a ruby cameo with the image of Cupid. On the back side - signature in the form of two intertwined 'C'. 1860

Gold brooch with pearls, diamonds and a ruby cameo with the image of Cupid. On the back side – signature in the form of two intertwined ‘C’. 1860

Roman micromosaic. Brooch, 1865. On the back of the brooch - signature and date '1866'; the edge decorated with gold wire

Roman micromosaic. Brooch, 1865. On the back of the brooch – signature and date ‘1866’; the edge decorated with gold wire

Brooch with Roman mosaic. 1860. On the reverse side - signature of the masteri. The holy spirit in the guise of a dove was a frequent motif of Castellani's products

Brooch with Roman mosaic. 1860. On the reverse side – signature of the masteri. The holy spirit in the guise of a dove was a frequent motif of Castellani’s products

Gorgeous set of brooch and earrings with bird theme. Micromosaic, 19th century

Gorgeous set of brooch and earrings with bird theme. Micromosaic, 19th century

Lion's head brooch, 19th century

Lion’s head brooch, 19th century

Mythological motif -head of Medusa, made in micromosaic technique. before 1888

Mythological motif -head of Medusa, made in micromosaic technique. before 1888

Ornaments of gold with micro mosaics. 1870. Nine medallions dedicated to Christian symbols in the Byzantine style. On the brooches the mosaic pattern underlined with a gold thread

Ornaments of gold with micro mosaics. 1870. Nine medallions dedicated to Christian symbols in the Byzantine style. On the brooches the mosaic pattern underlined with a gold thread

Portrait of Plotius Plancus on gold brooch. Circa 1865. A picture of the reverse side (with an increase) confirms the work by by Castellani, and greatly raises the cost of the brooch

Portrait of Plotius Plancus on gold brooch. Circa 1865. A picture of the reverse side (with an increase) confirms the work by by Castellani, and greatly raises the cost of the brooch

Stunning jewelry piece with micromosaic, ring, circa 1850

Stunning jewelry piece with micromosaic, ring, circa 1850

The filigree gold brooch of Master Castellani

The filigree gold brooch by Master Castellani

Leaf golden diadem by Castellani's work signed by two 'C'. 1870

Leaf golden diadem by Castellani’s work signed by two ‘C’. 1870

Two gold brooches. 1860

Two gold brooches. 1860

Two silver figures embody Painting and Sculpture. Bracelet made of gold and silver with enamel, small pearls and carbuncle (almandine garnet). 1850-1855

Two silver figures embody Painting and Sculpture. Bracelet made of gold and silver with enamel, small pearls and carbuncle (almandine garnet). 1850-1855

source
Jewellery art guide, 1989. Rodnik publisher