Kaleidoscope effect

Jewellery kaleidoscope

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery. 18K Gold, Amethyst, enamel and diamond brooch, Gubelin (image from website sothebys.com)

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery – one of the most sophisticated and complex art of vitreous enamelling technique. The technique of the Byzantine Empire of 6th century was revived in the late 19th century, by the movement of revivalist jewellery, and became especially popular in Russia. Works by legendary jewelers, such as Pavel Ovchinikov, Ivan Khlebnikov, and some other masters working for Faberge are real masterpieces of plique-a-jour. This filigree technique enables light to shine through the enamel like stained-glass. Russian masters predominately worked with tableware. Precious artistic tableware, decorative and applied art from the stained glass enamels always considered the top jewellery.

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery (image from website sothebys.com)

The technique of plique-a-jour was adopted by Kievan Russia (strong trading partner of Constantinople) with other enamel techniques. Plique-à-jour tableware was used by aristocracy. Russian masters significantly developed plique-a-jour technique: in addition to cells cut in precious metal they worked with cells made of silver wire. Unfortunately the plique-à-jour technique of Kievan Russia was lost after the crushing Mongol invasion in the 13th century. Some surviving examples are exhibited in the Historical Museum in Moscow.

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery. Sapphire, ruby and diamond brooch, Boucheron, Paris, circa 1945

Currently plique-a-jour still not often used because it is challenging technically and mainly due to break in transferring of skills between generations of jewelers. Although some luxury houses (Tiffany in jewellery, Bulushoff in jewellery and tableware) produce limited numbers of products in plique-à-jour technique. Works in shotai shippo technique are also known from China and Iran.

Art Nouveau diamond, pearl, and plique-à-jour enamel floral brooch

Art Nouveau diamond, pearl, and plique-à-jour enamel floral brooch

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Art Nouveau Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

René Lalique – ‘Le Chant du Cygne’ 1901. Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour. Art Nouveau enamel and pearl flower pendant. Blue, white and yellow enamelled flower head with brilliant-cut diamond centre, circa 1900.

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Lalique C1905, Art Nouveau Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Lalique C1905, Art Nouveau Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Art Nouveau Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour. Gold, platinum, aquamarine and diamond dragonfly pendant brooch, France, circa 1900

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Art Nouveau Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour. Lucien Gautrait pendant

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Gem set and diamond brooch/pendant by Henrie-Auguste Solié, circa 1900. Plique-a-jour Jewellery

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Lalique 1900 Jewellery made in Plique-a-jour technique

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Art Nouveau Gold, Platinum, Plique-a-Jour Enamel, Diamond and Pearl

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

sources:

sothebys.com

jewelsdujour.com