Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery
18K Gold, Amethyst, enamel and diamond brooch, Gubelin (image from website sothebys.com). Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery
One of the most sophisticated and complex art of vitreous enamelling technique, originates in the Byzantine Empire of 6th century. Revived in the late 19th century by the movement of revivalist jewellery, this technique became especially popular in Russia. In particular, works by legendary jewelers, such as Pavel Ovchinikov, Ivan Khlebnikov, and some other masters working for Faberge are real masterpieces of plique-a-jour.
This filigree technique enables light to shine through the enamel like stained-glass. Traditionally, Russian masters predominately worked with tableware. Precious artistic tableware, decorative and applied art from the stained glass enamels always considered the top jewellery.

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery
Floral design. Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery (image from website sothebys.com)

Kievan Russia (strong trading partner of Constantinople) adopted the technique of plique-a-jour alongside with other enamel techniques. In fact, owing Plique-à-jour tableware was the sign of aristocracy. Meanwhile, Russian masters significantly developed plique-a-jour technique. Thus, in addition to cells cut in precious metal they worked with cells made of silver wire. Unfortunately, the plique-à-jour technique of Kievan Russia was lost after the crushing Mongol invasion in the 13th century. Yet, some examples still preserved and now visitors to the Historical Museum in Moscow can enjoy them.

In fact, the modern masters rare use plique-a-jour technique in their work. First of all, because it is challenging technically. And second, mainly due to break in transferring of skills between generations of jewelers. However, some luxury houses, such as Tiffany in jewellery, Bulushoff in jewellery and tableware produce limited numbers of products in this technique. Also, in China and Iran craftsmen still work in the similar technique, known as shotai shippo.

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Boucheron exquisite pendant. Sapphire, ruby and diamond. Paris, circa 1945
Boucheron exquisite pendant. Sapphire, ruby and diamond. Paris, circa 1945
plique-à-jour enamel jewelry
Stunning Art Nouveau diamond, pearl, and plique-à-jour enamel floral brooch
plique-à-jour enamel jewelry
Classic of Art Nouveau. Made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour
Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour
Poppy flower. Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour
Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour
René Lalique – ‘Le Chant du Cygne’ 1901
Enamel and pearl flower pendant. Blue, white and yellow enamelled flower head with brilliant-cut diamond centre, circa 1900
Enamel and pearl flower pendant. Blue, white and yellow enamelled flower head with brilliant-cut diamond centre, circa 1900
Lalique C1905, Art Nouveau Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour
Lalique circa 1905, Art Nouveau
Lalique C1905, Art Nouveau Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour
Butterfly brooch. Lalique circa 1905, Art Nouveau Jewellery
Gold, platinum, aquamarine and diamond dragonfly pendant brooch, France, circa 1900
Dragonfly. Gold, platinum, aquamarine and diamond dragonfly pendant brooch, France, circa 1900
Lucien Gautrait pendant
Lucien Gautrait pendant
Gem set and diamond brooch/pendant by Henrie-Auguste Solié, circa 1900. Plique-a-jour Jewellery
Gem set and diamond brooch/pendant by Henrie-Auguste Solié, circa 1900
Lalique 1900 Jewellery made in Plique-a-jour technique
Nature inspired Lalique 1900 Jewellery made in Plique-a-jour technique
Art Nouveau Gold, Platinum, Plique-a-Jour Enamel, Diamond and Pearl
Vintage jewelry piece, Art Nouveau. Gold, Platinum, Plique-a-Jour Enamel, Diamond and Pearl
Art Nouveau Gold, Platinum, Plique-a-Jour Enamel, Diamond and Pearl
Plique-a-jour jewellery art. Lilies brooch
Art Nouveau Gold, Platinum, Plique-a-Jour Enamel, Diamond and Pearl
Beautiful dragonfly pendant
Petunia brooch, enamelling technique Plique-a-jour
Petunia brooch
Petunia brooch, enamelling technique Plique-a-jour
Grape brooch. Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery
Petunia brooch, enamelling technique Plique-a-jour
Delicate petunia brooch, Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery
Bracelet in Plique-a-jour enamel technique of jewellery
Bracelet in Plique-a-jour enamel technique of jewellery
Plique-a-jour enamel technique of jewellery
Stunning butterfly brooch
Plique-a-jour enamel technique of jewellery
Earrings

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