Kaleidoscope effect

Jewellery kaleidoscope

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

18K Gold, Amethyst, enamel and diamond brooch, Gubelin (image from website sothebys.com). Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery
One of the most sophisticated and complex art of vitreous enamelling technique, originates in the Byzantine Empire of 6th century. Revived in the late 19th century by the movement of revivalist jewellery, this technique became especially popular in Russia. In particular, works by legendary jewelers, such as Pavel Ovchinikov, Ivan Khlebnikov, and some other masters working for Faberge are real masterpieces of plique-a-jour.
This filigree technique enables light to shine through the enamel like stained-glass. Traditionally, Russian masters predominately worked with tableware. Precious artistic tableware, decorative and applied art from the stained glass enamels always considered the top jewellery.

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Floral design. Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery (image from website sothebys.com)

Kievan Russia (strong trading partner of Constantinople) adopted the technique of plique-a-jour alongside with other enamel techniques. In fact, owing Plique-à-jour tableware was the sign of aristocracy. Meanwhile, Russian masters significantly developed plique-a-jour technique. Thus, in addition to cells cut in precious metal they worked with cells made of silver wire. Unfortunately, the plique-à-jour technique of Kievan Russia was lost after the crushing Mongol invasion in the 13th century. Yet, some examples still preserved and now visitors to the Historical Museum in Moscow can enjoy them.

In fact, the modern masters rare use plique-a-jour technique in their work. First of all, because it is challenging technically. And second, mainly due to break in transferring of skills between generations of jewelers. However, some luxury houses, such as Tiffany in jewellery, Bulushoff in jewellery and tableware produce limited numbers of products in this technique. Also, in China and Iran craftsmen still work in the similar technique, known as shotai shippo.

Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Boucheron exquisite pendant. Sapphire, ruby and diamond. Paris, circa 1945

Boucheron exquisite pendant. Sapphire, ruby and diamond. Paris, circa 1945

plique-à-jour enamel jewelry

Stunning Art Nouveau diamond, pearl, and plique-à-jour enamel floral brooch

plique-à-jour enamel jewelry

Classic of Art Nouveau. Made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Poppy flower. Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

René Lalique – ‘Le Chant du Cygne’ 1901

Enamel and pearl flower pendant. Blue, white and yellow enamelled flower head with brilliant-cut diamond centre, circa 1900

Enamel and pearl flower pendant. Blue, white and yellow enamelled flower head with brilliant-cut diamond centre, circa 1900

Lalique C1905, Art Nouveau Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Lalique C1905, Art Nouveau Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Lalique C1905, Art Nouveau Jewellery made in vitreous enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Butterfly brooch. Lalique c1905, Art Nouveau Jewellery

Gold, platinum, aquamarine and diamond dragonfly pendant brooch, France, circa 1900

Dragonfly. Gold, platinum, aquamarine and diamond dragonfly pendant brooch, France, circa 1900

Lucien Gautrait pendant

Lucien Gautrait pendant

Gem set and diamond brooch/pendant by Henrie-Auguste Solié, circa 1900. Plique-a-jour Jewellery

Gem set and diamond brooch/pendant by Henrie-Auguste Solié, circa 1900

Lalique 1900 Jewellery made in Plique-a-jour technique

Nature inspired Lalique 1900 Jewellery made in Plique-a-jour technique

Art Nouveau Gold, Platinum, Plique-a-Jour Enamel, Diamond and Pearl

Vintage jewelry piece, Art Nouveau. Gold, Platinum, Plique-a-Jour Enamel, Diamond and Pearl

Art Nouveau Gold, Platinum, Plique-a-Jour Enamel, Diamond and Pearl

Plique-a-jour jewellery art. Lilies brooch

Art Nouveau Gold, Platinum, Plique-a-Jour Enamel, Diamond and Pearl

Beautiful dragonfly pendant

Petunia brooch, enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Petunia brooch

Petunia brooch, enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Grape brooch. Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Petunia brooch, enamelling technique Plique-a-jour

Delicate petunia brooch, Plique-a-jour enamel jewellery

Bracelet in Plique-a-jour enamel technique of jewellery

Bracelet in Plique-a-jour enamel technique of jewellery

Plique-a-jour enamel technique of jewellery

Stunning butterfly brooch

Plique-a-jour enamel technique of jewellery

Earrings

sources:
sothebys.com
jewelsdujour.com