Signed BJL vintage costume jewelry

Bohemian Jewellers Ltd vintage jewelry

Signed BJL vintage costume jewelry
Neptune brooch pin. Marcasite, enamel, rhodium plated. 1950s. Signed BJL vintage costume jewelry

Founded in 1946 in Birmingham, England, Bohemian Jewellers Ltd produced costume jewellery using sterling silver, marcasite and multi-coloured enamel. Over the course of its six decades of existence, the company underwent several reorganisations, changes and finally closed in 2008.

BJL jewellery designs range from botanically correct garden flowers and zodiac signs to birds, animals and mythological creatures. The back of the jewellery includes the abbreviated company name BJL, sometimes with an additional B.

When talking about Birmingham-based Bohemian Jewellers Ltd, we cannot help but talk about the city itself. Noteworthy, it was the jewellery industry that gave Birmingham its second name – the Silver City. Moreover, the Jewellers’ Quarter in Birmingham has become one of the most visited sites not only in the UK but also in Europe, along with the Roman Pantheon and the National Gallery in London.

According to history, the whims of one man gave impetus to the development of an entire industry. This man was King Charles II, who became very fond of buttons and buckles after his stay in France. He was inspired by the buttons on the clothes of noblemen, which looked like small brooches, and the shoe buckles with natural stones. Thus, by the king’s decision, the fashion for such jewelry appeared in England.

Vintage brooch in the shape of orchid, marcasite and hand-painted enamel. England, 1940-50-ies
Vintage brooch in the shape of orchid, marcasite and hand-painted enamel. Birmingham, 1940-50-ies

However, silver and marcasite replaced the chic of precious stones in the early 20th century. Made from small faceted pieces of pyrite, often set in silver, marcasite became popular during the Victorian era. After the death of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria went into mourning, and demanded that her entire court wear black and avoid lavish jewellery. So, marcasite became popular among the nobility as an alternative to precious metals and diamonds.

Maker's mark
Maker’s mark since 1950s

Signed BJL vintage costume jewelry

Blue glass clear crystal silver tone wreath brooch
Blue glass clear crystal silver tone wreath brooch
Bull enamel marcasite brooch pin
Bull enamel marcasite brooch pin
Deer and fawn silver tone enamel marcasite brooch. 1940s
Deer and fawn silver tone enamel marcasite brooch. 1940s
Flower sterling silver marcasite enamel brooch pin. 5 cm
Flower sterling silver marcasite enamel brooch pin. 5 cm
Flower sterling silver marcasite multicolor enamel brooch pin. 5 cm
Flower sterling silver marcasite multicolor enamel brooch pin. 5 cm
Green sails ship brooch. Silver marcasite, enamel
Green sails ship brooch. Silver marcasite, enamel
Lily Flower sterling silver marcasite enamel brooch pin. 5 cm
Flower sterling silver marcasite enamel brooch pin. 5 cm
Orchid sterling silver marcasite enamel brooch pin. 5 cm. 1950s
Orchid sterling silver marcasite enamel brooch pin. 5 cm. 1950s
Parrot sterling silver marcasite enamel brooch. 5 cm. 1970s
Parrot sterling silver marcasite enamel brooch. 5 cm. 1970s
Pheasant sterling silver marcasite enamel brooch pin
Pheasant sterling silver marcasite enamel brooch pin
Ram zodiac animal brooch. Enamel, marcasite
Ram zodiac animal brooch. Enamel, marcasite
Scorpio Zodiac Sign brooch. Silver tone, teal green enamel, marcasite, rhodium plated. 3.4 cm
Scorpio Zodiac Sign brooch. Silver tone, teal green enamel, marcasite, rhodium plated. 3.4 cm
Swan enamel marcasite brooch
Swan enamel marcasite brooch
Maker's mark
Maker’s mark

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