Precious vintage – Erte Art Deco jewelry
Opera Lady Fedora with a Butterfly brooch pin. Gold tone metal, enamel, crystals. Signed FM (Franklin Mint). Erte Art Deco jewelry
Erte Art Deco jewelry
The works of Russian-born French artist and designer Romain de Tirtoff (November 23, 1892 – April 21, 1990) were admired by George Balanchine and Andy Warhol. Erte achieved worldwide fame in the 1970s and was awarded the French Order of Arts and Literature (1976). Around this period, he fulfilled his long-held dream of creating jewelry.
“The father of art deco” launched a series of jewelry made from his drawings of 1920-30s. Traditionally, the jewelers used 14 carat gold, sterling silver, rubies, diamonds, topazes, amethysts, mother of pearl, lapis lazuli and black onyx. Jewelry of this brand is rarity sold at special auctions.
Not satisfied with modern jewelry, Erte found it tasteless and pompous. In 1974 Jack Solomon specially came to Paris to meet him and help in his new business. Soon, Jack Solomon began to search for jewelers who could implement the designer’s plan. This jeweler was Natalie Kane O’Keiff, who lived in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Their fruitful cooperation lasted 10 years.
Romain de Tirtoff (November 23, 1892 – April 21, 1990)
The first jewelry they created, released in a limited edition, received public recognition.
Erte’s jewelry design reflected his fascination with Egyptian motifs and Persian miniatures. Inspired by Leon Bakst’s theater costume illustrations, Erte transferred eastern exoticism to his jewelry.
Noteworthy, in 1979, he “launched” a limited collection of jewelry “Art to Wear”, made from his drawings of the 20s and 30s of the last century, including the “alphabetical” and “digital” series.
1979 – the beginning of the creation of the Art to Wear Collection based on ERTE jewelry designs. Noteworthy, the manufacturer of many of Erte design was The Franklin Mint company.
Upon his death in 1990, he was hailed as the undisputed “Prince of the Music Hall,” the “Mirror for Fashion for 75 years,” and “The Father of Art Deco.”
Erte Art Deco jewelry
Symphony in Black brooch. 14 K gold trim, austrian crystals, enamel 6 cm. Franklin mint
The Franklin Mint box
‘The Sensuous Designs of Erte’ by Franklin Mint
‘Shining Empire State Building’ 14 K rose gold brooch. 6 cm
A couple kissing behind the fan. Gold and sterling silver, pearls, enamel
Alouette ring, 14k gold, pave diamonds, mother-of-pearl and azure Topaz
Art Deco pendant
B letter sterling silver gold plated pin
Beauty of the beast pendant. Diamond, mother of pearl, black onyx, 14 K gold
Celestial theme brooch
Claire de Lune Earrings of gold tone, crystals
Enchanted Melody earrings. Sterling silver, gold plated, crystals, onyx
Firebird necklace. Gold, diamonds
Fox ring. Sterling silver, gold plated, crystals, emerald
‘H’ letter pin brooch. Gold plated sterling silver, crystals
Heart brooch pendant. Gold, diamond, black onyx
Julietta Art Deco brooch ‘Leopard Lady with a baby leopard’. Gold tone textured metal, enamel, crystals. Signed FM (Franklin Mint)
Kneeled nude lady brooch pin of gold tone, rhinestones. Variation on number 2 Erte design and his La Plume serigraph
La Mer ring. Sterling silver, amber, crystals
Sirene brooch. Silver, gold, blue sapphires, mother-of-pearl
Le chant du cygne brooch. Sterling silver, gold, emeralds, sapphires, mother-of-pearl
Le Soleil Noir earrings. Enamel, sterling silver, gold plated
Q brooch. Sterling silver, gold plated, Swarovski crystals
Letter ‘Y’ brooch pin. Sterling silver, gold plated, Swarovski crystals
Dangle earrings 9 cm. 1990s. 14 K gold, black onyx
Mother-of-pearl, gold and diamond necklace and earrings
Princess Swan Limited Edition Brooch. France, 1930’s. Silver, 14k gold, black Jade, Mother of Pearl, Diamonds and Rubies. Signed CFA Sterling 14K
1950s earrings. 18 K gold plated, onyx, pearl
‘Coquillage’ series rings. Gold, diamonds, Silver, black onyx, garnet, blue topaz
Round brooch. 14 K gold plated, diamonds, onyx, ruby, mother of pearl. 4,3 cm
Sapphire, diamond and gold ring
Signature
Silver and gold set of necklace and earrings
Soleil Noir Domed Ring. Gold filled, pearl
‘U’ brooch pendant from Alphabet series. Sterling silver, gold plated, crystals
Victoria with an Eagle, or Victoire Falconer pin. Gold tone metal, crystals, enamel. Franklin Mint signed
