Opera Lady Fedora with a Butterfly brooch pin. Gold tone metal, enamel, crystals. Signed FM (Franklin Mint). Erte Art Deco jewelry
Erte Art Deco jewelry
The works of Russian-born French artist and designer Romain de Tirtoff (November 23, 1892 – April 21, 1990) were admired by George Balanchine and Andy Warhol. Erte achieved worldwide fame in the 1970s and was awarded the French Order of Arts and Literature (1976). Around this period, he fulfilled his long-held dream of creating jewelry.
“The father of art deco” launched a series of jewelry made from his drawings of 1920-30s. Traditionally, the jewelers used 14 carat gold, sterling silver, rubies, diamonds, topazes, amethysts, mother of pearl, lapis lazuli and black onyx. Jewelry of this brand is rarity sold at special auctions.
Not satisfied with modern jewelry, Erte found it tasteless and pompous. In 1974 Jack Solomon specially came to Paris to meet him and help in his new business. Soon, Jack Solomon began to search for jewelers who could implement the designer’s plan. This jeweler was Natalie Kane O’Keiff, who lived in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Their fruitful cooperation lasted 10 years.
Romain de Tirtoff (November 23, 1892 – April 21, 1990)
The first jewelry they created, released in a limited edition, received public recognition.
Erte’s jewelry design reflected his fascination with Egyptian motifs and Persian miniatures. Inspired by Leon Bakst’s theater costume illustrations, Erte transferred eastern exoticism to his jewelry.
Noteworthy, in 1979, he “launched” a limited collection of jewelry “Art to Wear”, made from his drawings of the 20s and 30s of the last century, including the “alphabetical” and “digital” series.
1979 – the beginning of the creation of the Art to Wear Collection based on ERTE jewelry designs. Noteworthy, the manufacturer of many of Erte design was The Franklin Mint company.
Upon his death in 1990, he was hailed as the undisputed “Prince of the Music Hall,” the “Mirror for Fashion for 75 years,” and “The Father of Art Deco.”
Erte Art Deco jewelry
Symphony in Black brooch. 14 K gold trim, austrian crystals, enamel 6 cm. Franklin mintThe Franklin Mint box‘The Sensuous Designs of Erte’ by Franklin Mint‘Shining Empire State Building’ 14 K rose gold brooch. 6 cmA couple kissing behind the fan. Gold and sterling silver, pearls, enamelAlouette ring, 14k gold, pave diamonds, mother-of-pearl and azure TopazArt Deco pendantB letter sterling silver gold plated pinBeauty of the beast pendant. Diamond, mother of pearl, black onyx, 14 K goldCelestial theme broochClaire de Lune Earrings of gold tone, crystalsEnchanted Melody earrings. Sterling silver, gold plated, crystals, onyxFirebird necklace. Gold, diamondsFox ring. Sterling silver, gold plated, crystals, emerald‘H’ letter pin brooch. Gold plated sterling silver, crystalsHeart brooch pendant. Gold, diamond, black onyxJulietta Art Deco brooch ‘Leopard Lady with a baby leopard’. Gold tone textured metal, enamel, crystals. Signed FM (Franklin Mint)Kneeled nude lady brooch pin of gold tone, rhinestones. Variation on number 2 Erte design and his La Plume serigraphLa Mer ring. Sterling silver, amber, crystalsSirene brooch. Silver, gold, blue sapphires, mother-of-pearlLe chant du cygne brooch. Sterling silver, gold, emeralds, sapphires, mother-of-pearlLe Soleil Noir earrings. Enamel, sterling silver, gold platedQ brooch. Sterling silver, gold plated, Swarovski crystalsLetter ‘Y’ brooch pin. Sterling silver, gold plated, Swarovski crystalsDangle earrings 9 cm. 1990s. 14 K gold, black onyxMother-of-pearl, gold and diamond necklace and earringsPrincess Swan Limited Edition Brooch. France, 1930’s. Silver, 14k gold, black Jade, Mother of Pearl, Diamonds and Rubies. Signed CFA Sterling 14K1950s earrings. 18 K gold plated, onyx, pearl‘Coquillage’ series rings. Gold, diamonds, Silver, black onyx, garnet, blue topazRound brooch. 14 K gold plated, diamonds, onyx, ruby, mother of pearl. 4,3 cmSapphire, diamond and gold ringSignatureSilver and gold set of necklace and earringsSoleil Noir Domed Ring. Gold filled, pearl‘U’ brooch pendant from Alphabet series. Sterling silver, gold plated, crystalsVictoria with an Eagle, or Victoire Falconer pin. Gold tone metal, crystals, enamel. Franklin Mint signed