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Parisian modernist jeweler Louis Aucoc

Parisian modernist jeweler Louis Aucoc

Dragonfly woman stunning Art Nouveau pendant. 18 Karat Gold, Plique-à-Jour Enamel, Carved Moonstone, diamonds, pearls, ivory. Parisian modernist jeweler Louis Aucoc

Parisian modernist jeweler Louis Aucoc
The leading Parisian art nouveau jeweler Louis Aucoc (1850-1932) worked with his father and brother Andre. The family-owned company Aucoc at 6 Rue de la Paix was founded in Paris in 1821 by silver craftsman Jean-Baptiste Casimir Aucoc. Noteworthy, it was under the patronage of the house of King Louis Philippe, House of Orleans, Napoleon III and Empress Eugenia.
In his youth, Jean-Baptiste dreamed of the sea, traveling and dreamed of becoming a pioneer, however, the famous fiasco of the Napoleonic campaigns made the young Frenchman devote himself to the “art of travel” rather than becoming a traveler himself. Having first become an apprentice at arms manufactories, the young man soon became interested in jewelry and by the 1820s he was qualified as a craftsman in silver. At first, the Aucoc manufactory worked only with silver, but later the commercial savvy of Jean-Baptiste allowed to complement the artel with glass-blowing production. Also, they begin to specialize in the so-called “Nécessaire de Voyage”, i.e. luggage of the traveler.

Parisian modernist jeweler Louis Aucoc (1850-1932)

Parisian modernist jeweler Louis Aucoc (1850-1932)

Relatively fast, with exquisite work and high quality, Jean-Baptiste gained popularity in Paris and later at the court of King Charles X. Already in 1835 he acquired a larger factory room at 4 and 6 Rue de la Paix in Paris, expanding production, becoming recognized and the sought-after luxury goods manufacturer de Voyage for the aristocracy and the wealthy bourgeois of France and Europe.

Red poppies buckle

Red poppies buckle

The increase in production, a certain reputation and accumulated experience, allowed Jean-Baptiste to rise to a higher level of production, focusing on jewelry art. By 1850, the company became family-owned – his son Louis Aucoc received the qualification of silver craftsman. He began to develop models at the manufactory with his father, which resulted in the gold medal of the Paris exhibition of 1851 for a traveler’s kit.

Thistle buckle

Thistle buckle

In 1854, Louis Aucoc became the head of production and the same year his father Jean-Baptiste retires. Aucoc continued to expand, acquiring the production of luxury goods by the master Pierre-Dominique Maire, thus becoming one of the largest silver and leather travel workshops in Paris. The commercial success of the enterprise, its loyalty to traditions and reputation allows Louis Aucoc to focus on jewelry production and the development of a separate silver manufactory. Subsequently, he become a well-known and recognized master of Parisian bohemia, European, English and Russian aristocracy.

Edem pendant

Edem pendant

Ivory gold, pearl pendant brooch

Ivory gold, pearl pendant brooch

In the 1870s, Louis Aucoc, Jr. (1850-1932) joined the family business, although for now he was an apprentice. Noteworthy, in 1876 he was working with another apprentice, sixteen-year-old Rene Lalique, who later became the recognized master of the Art Nouveau period. It was at the Aucoc factory for two years that he first learned the skills of a jeweler and a glazier, made the first sketches, etc.

Hair comb. Ivory, pearls

Hair comb. Ivory, pearls

In 1877, Louis Aucoc acquired the Parisian Lobjois manufactory, renaming the family business in the jewelry house Aucoc (La Maison de l’Orfèvre Aucoc). The beginning of the 20th century, the jewelry house celebrates the brand’s triumph. And in 1900, the second son of Louis the eldest – André, joins the business. He completely assumes the commercial management of a large enterprise, leaving his father and brother the opportunity to concentrate entirely on orders for the silver manufactory. Thus, they returned to the historical roots of the factory, realized by Jean-Baptiste Casimir Auquoc – silver craftsman.

Classic modernist image of a woman depicted in gold pendant

Classic modernist image of a woman depicted in gold pendant

Parisian modernist jeweler Louis Aucoc

Lotus flower and leaves brooch pendant. Gold, Platinum, Enamel, Diamond and Pearl. Circa 1901-1902

Lotus flower and leaves brooch pendant. Gold, Platinum, Enamel, Diamond and Pearl. Circa 1901-1902

Arrow pin. Diamonds, rubies

Arrow pin. Diamonds, rubies

Art Nouveau female head pendant. Ivory, gold, pearl

Art Nouveau female head pendant. Ivory, gold, pearl

Garden flower design gold tone enameled brooch pendant

Garden flower design gold tone enameled brooch pendant

Hair pin

Hair pin

Maiden and peacock feather brooch. Gold, ivory, sapphire, diamonds, silver

Maiden and peacock feather brooch. Gold, ivory, sapphire, diamonds, silver

Octopus and a woman pendant. Gold, diamonds, pearl, ivory

Octopus and a woman pendant. Gold, diamonds, pearl, ivory

Poppy buckle. Gold, enamel

Poppy buckle. Gold, enamel

Romantic gold and pearl pendant

Romantic gold and pearl pendant

Sea star female head pendant brooch. Gold, silver, ivory, diamonds

Sea star female head pendant brooch. Gold, silver, ivory, diamonds

Water lily hair comb

Water lily hair comb