Kaleidoscope effect

Modernist design gold tone dangling pendant. 8 cm. 1980s. Etienne Aigner vintage costume jewelry

Etienne Aigner vintage costume jewelry
Born in Hungarian city of Ersekujvar (now Slovakia), Istvan (fr. Etienne) Aigner (1904-2000) was the founder of Etienne Aigner. Currently they are separate haute couture houses Aigner US and Aigner AG based in New York and Munich, Germany, respectively. Both companies manufacture luxury goods including handbags, shoes, women’s ready-to-wear, wallets and leather accessories.
Initially, Aigner created high quality leather goods for boutiques and high fashion houses in Paris. Then, in the 1950s, after gaining invaluable experience in the fashion houses of Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga, he came to New York to start a career as a designer. Already in 1959, Aigner founded the family business with his wife Suzanne, opening the first showroom in Manhattan, New York. However, ten years later they sold their company.
The history of Aigner brand began in 1965, when Etienne in partnership with Heiner Rankl founded the Aigner company headquartered in Munich. The German Patent Office registered Aigner trademark on 24 August 1966. Passionate about equestrian world, he marked his products with a logo stylized as a horseshoe with the initial A. A universal symbol of luck, the horseshoe logo became iconic, because luck played a big role in Aigner’s life. Jewish designer, Étienne (István) Aigner lived a long creative life, dying in New York at the age of 96.
Noteworthy, Etienne Aigner Inc. began creating watches, eyewear, and costume jewelry in the early 1980s.
The company, founded in 1965, is still active and present in 40 countries. Vintage jewelry marked with a horseshoe with the initial A is highly collectible.
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Mermaid gold plated bronze brooch. Designed by Du Sica. Arthus Bertrand vintage costume jewelry

Arthus Bertrand vintage costume jewelry
The history of French jewelry brand Arthus Bertrand began more than two centuries ago, in 1803, after the approval of the Legion of Honor in France. Its founder, Claude Arthus-Bertrand, supplied orders and other insignia to the Napoleonic court. The authority of Arthus-Bertrand in this area was so great that in the future, not a single government of France had questions about where to order awards for the outstanding sons of the Fatherland. His medals and orders have become symbols of French history. Statesmen, diplomats and military personnel around the world still wear insignia and medals made by the hands of the company’s masters.

Entrusted with the production of insignia and awards for the Legion of Honor, Claude Arthus-Bertrand, an army officer, in addition to state awards, created jewelry designs.
Today, the vintage pieces signed AB can be a great prize, a unique souvenir, or an expensive VIP gift.
Noteworthy, the marking on each piece can be different. In particular, “AB Edit. Paris”, “AB” monogram and Cie with a wheel underneath, as well as the eagles head which is the French mark for 18K gold, or 18K and FRANCE. Also, the marking could include the address of the jewelry shop, for example, 46. Rue de rennes”, or the name of the brooch’s designer, for example, “Du Sica,” followed by “Paris”.
Considered the best of the horoscope zodiac jewels, many jewelers attempted to copy these designs, but without much luck, for these beauties are unsurpassed.
The company is still active, and its antique and vintage pieces are rare and highly collectible.
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Newspaper pring design pendant. 4 cm. 1990s. Biche de Bere vintage costume jewelry

Biche de Bere vintage costume jewelry
Jewelry and ready-to-wear brand Biche de Bere (founded in 1986) announced its liquidation on Tuesday, November 6, 2007. The company, which employed almost 200 employees, had to close 20 stores. In 2006, its income was 6.5 million euros, but the debt was 7 million euros.
Born December 5, 1964, Nelly Biche de Bere was a graduate of the Ecole Supérieure de Design Industriel in Paris. Aged twenty, she left for the United States to continue her studies at the Pratt Institute in New York. Nelly combined her studies with work as a waitress, and at night she created jewelry. Noteworthy, she created her own brand and first costume jewelry collection from recycled materials in 1986. Her talent was quickly noticed, the first large orders appeared, and for the next seven years she worked in New York.
Back in France, she founded the division of her brand in Nantes in 1993 in the partnership with her husband Christophe Caïs. Her brand quickly gained popularity and Nelly opened several stores in France and US. Already in 1994, the company opened a factory in French Chateaubriand, then another factory, and the number of stores grew. She sold her clothing and original, innovative jewelry in 59 countries.
True fashion jewelry, her designs combine minimalism and abstract, and sometimes figurative. Among most notable are modernist typographic details. She created about 37 new collections per year, and most of them in limited edition. After 2007 Nelly concentrated her life on her family, children and painting.
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Tribal man profile brooch. 14 K Gold plated metal, resin. 6.4. 1980s. Jean Louis Scherrer vintage costume jewelry

Jean Louis Scherrer vintage costume jewelry

Born in 1936 in Paris, Jean Louis Scherrer graduated from the haute couture school (originally – Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne) in 1955. From that year on, Scherrer became an assistant at the Dior Fashion House, and was directly involved in the management until 1957. After the death of Christian Dior, the young designer continued his collaboration with Yves Saint Laurent, but left this brand in 1959.
In 1962, Jean-Louis opened his own fashion house, and in 1971 presented his first “Prêt-a-Porter” collection.
Like other haute couture houses, along with clothes and perfume, he designed costume jewelry which was an integral part of his collections. Noteworthy, he was one of the very few couturiers who personally prepared jewelry designs. According to art historians, it was not Yves Saint Laurent, but Scherrer who created most of Christian Dior’s mid-1950s jewelry designs.
Also, some of his jewelry was created at at Henkel & Grosse in Pforzheim, Germany (exclusive manufacturer of Dior jewelry). Traditionally marked with the initials “JLs” and “Paris”, or “Scherrer”, or “JL Scherrer” on oval base, these vintage pieces are highly collectible.
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Cat silhouette design antique gold tone brooch pin. 5.5 cm. 1960s. Agatha Paris vintage costume jewelry

Agatha Paris vintage costume jewelry
The history of the French costume jewelry brand AGATHA began as a family business in Paris in 1974. According to legend, Michel Quinioux, the founder of the company, chose the name Agatha for a reason. He wanted a feminine name that began with the letter A and related to natural stones, in particular to agate. In addition, he wanted to create affordable jewelry based on a combination of creativity, fashion inspiration and a cheerful spirit.
Traditionally, the company’s craftsmen use metal alloys, sterling silver, copper, art glass imitating semi-precious stones, as well as mother-of-pearl and natural stones. The first boutique, which appeared in the 1970s on Rue Montge in Paris, offered exceptional design at low prices. Due to its affordable prices, authenticity, high quality and innovation, Agatha labeled jewelry was a great success among the French. By the way, Michel Quinioux’s favorite ‘Scottie’ dog inspired him to create a pendant, and since 1980s it has been the company’s mascot.
Noteworthy, since 1993, the buyer could choose stones and design to create their own unique jewelry.
In 2006, the founder of the company, Michel Quinioux retired and sold his brand to the King Power group.
The company has about 300 stores and boutiques all over the world, including Italy, Japan, Canada, China and the United States.
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Clown with watch brooch. Gold tone metal alloy, enamel, rhinestones. 7.5 cm. 1980s. Bonetto vintage timepiece costume jewelry

Bonetto vintage timepiece costume jewelry
The history of the Italian company “Bonetto Fratelli S.R.L.” began in 1963 in Valenza, Province of Alessandria. The company became famous for making timepiece costume jewelry – brooches, bracelets, and watch pendants. Louis Byun has been the main designer of many jeweled timepieces.
Traditionally, the company’s craftsmen used gold-tone jewelry alloy, enamel, mother-of-pearl (mainly for the dial), crystals, rhinestones, and sometimes fur. Noteworthy, the manufacturer gave a 1 year warranty for its high quality products. The markings included the word “Bonetto” with the copyright mark. Sometimes jewelry was produced without marking, but in a branded box, commissioned by Fashion Houses or other companies. Along with brooches and pendants, the company produced large rings with built-in clockwork. However, the watch mechanisms themselves were Japanese.
According to the company’s statement, fashion is divided into two parts – with and without Bonetto. “Each handmade exclusive design is different, unique, and each has mystic and aura”.
The company operated until 2000 with short breaks and changes in ownership, and finally, the renewed company ceased to exist in 2016.
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Fish brooch. Gold plated metal, art glass, enamel, rhinestones. 7 cm. 1990s. Dolphin Ore vintage costume jewelry

Dolphin Ore vintage costume jewelry
Best known throughout Europe for its excellent workmanship, Dolphin Ore (gold dolphin) founded in 1994 was a private company. Located at Rishon LeZion, Israel, the company produced luxury costume jewelry imitating products of such iconic brands as Tiffany & Сo, Сarrеra y Cаrrera, Vаn Cleef & Аrрels, to name a few. Accordingly, the style and design of Dolphin Ore costume jewelry is very different. However, the common feature of all these decorations is the impeccable quality. Traditionally, the craftsmen used highest quality 18K gold plating, electroplate finish, glitter enamel, mother-of-pearl, Swarovski crystals, and natural semi-precious stones. Produced in limited editions, each piece has a distinctive marking in the shape of a dolphin. Noteworthy, earlier pieces had two “DO” letters on the back side. Also, there can be products without a stamp – when the stamp violates the artistic performance.
Vintage jewelry created in the 1990s is collectible.
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