Kaleidoscope effect

Pendant necklace. Circa 1925. Gold, silver, sapphire, tourmaline, and pearls with a central carved jade rose. Work by English jewelry designer Dorrie Nossiter (29 June 1893 – 1977)

English jewelry designer Dorrie Nossiter
Born 29 June 1893 in Aston, Dorrie Nossiter was a famous English jewelry designer. Traditionally, she made her jewelry decorations in the well known style of the time – Art Deco and Arts and Crafts. Creating her well designed jewelry pieces, Nossiter used gold and sterling silver. Also, various gems, such as sapphire, tourmaline, jade and pearls. Noteworthy, Dorrie Nossiter did not mark any of her jewelry pieces. According to designs, there are visual similarities in Nossiter’s jewelry and works of another English designer Sibyl Dunlop. Moreover, some of the products attributed to Dunlop (so called “carpet of gems”) are actually works made by Nossiter. However, the design, settings and general method of construction of these decorations allow jewelry lovers and collectors to attribute them to Dorrie Nossiter.
Interestingly, Nossiter assigned a name to each piece of jewelry, for example “Silent Evening”, “Heavenly Twins”, etc.
Talented jeweler Dorrie Nossiter, who worked primarily in the 1930s, died in 1977.
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Matrix turquoise gold brooch pendant with two pearls. Murrle Bennett art nouveau jewelry

Murrle Bennett art nouveau jewelry (1884-1914)

Created in London in 1884, the jewelry company Murrle, Bennet & CO, specialized in art nouveau jewelry. The company collaborated with Liberty, and very often their decorations were stylistically close. The art of modern jewelers did not escape the influence of the art of other eras. In particular, the Celtic ornaments. However, it did not consist in borrowing elements of style and reproducing historical patterns, but in synthesizing different cultures.
Traditionally, Murrle Bennett quality pieces have marks M B & Co, also stamped carat – 9 ct, or 15 ct, etc.
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Baroque pearl 18 gold plated cross earrings. 1990s. Active since 1972 Christopher Walling Jewelry Art

Christopher Walling Jewelry Art

The story of self-taught jewelry designer Walling began in his childhood when he was… eight years old! The son of the United Nations’ activist, he spent his childhood in the capitals of Lebanon, France, Switzerland, and West Africa. According to Walling, Africa influenced his love affair for color. In particular, the fabrics of African women’s clothes, the way they wore turbans, and their elegance. He was there for two years and undoubtedly, had great and useful experience there. Meanwhile, in 1968 he moved to New York. Already in 1972 he began making his own jewelry line, which we now know under the name of Christopher Walling. Noteworthy, the designer became known mostly for his unusually shaped and rare baroque pearl and diamond jewelry. His work has significantly influenced modern jewelry, featured in various TV programs. In particular, two PBS documentaries, the Nova program, “Mystique of the Pearl” and the Nature special “Diamonds.”
Described by Sotheby’s as “undoubtedly one of the most exciting jewelry designers”, his creations have adorned many celerbrities. Among them Maya Angelou, Linda Gray, Brook Hayward, Jasper Johns, Alex Katz, Queen Noor of Jordan, Danielle Steele, Renee Taylor, Elizabeth Taylor and others.
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Apple patriotic brooch with American flag. Gold tone jewelry alloy, clear rhinestones, blue, red and white enamel. Signed Wlind vintage costume jewelry

Wlind vintage costume jewelry
Unfortunately, there isn’t much information about costume jewelry marked Wlind, which appeared in 1968. Traditionally, wlind jewelry was made of gold tone metal with the use of rhinestones, faux pearl and enamel. Some pieces have marks SP Wlind, which means silver plated Wlind, or G.E. Wlind, or just Wlind. Noteworthy, all jewelry pieces marked Wlind is vintage. Made in 1960-1980s, Wlind decorations are of great interest to collectors of vintage bijouterie. Originally, costume jewelry marked Wlind was a division of the marketing company Suarez Corporation Industries, based in Cleveland, Ohio. In 1990, the company working in the area of jewelry production changed name to Lindenwold Fine Jewelers. The company became a supplier of fine and fashion jewelry, and one of the largest direct-to-consumer jewelers in the world. According to web sources, the Lindenwold Fine Jewelers company faced at least two lawsuits. First, for copyright infringment for selling a jewel that imitated necklace in “Titanic”. Second, for misleading marketing practices in the sale of loose Cubic zirconia stones.
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Modernist style moth and flowers round brooch pendant. Sterling silver. Work by Dutch jeweler Georg Arthur Jensen (1866-1935)

Dutch jeweler Georg Arthur Jensen
Born in the city of Raadwad, north of Copenhagen, Georg Arthur Jensen (1866-1935) – a famous Danish jeweler, silversmith, founder of the company Georg Jensen. Aged fourteen, Georg began to study sculpture. Next, he graduated from the Danish Academy of Fine Arts where he studied jewelry design. After finishing his studies in 1884, young Jensen got the opportunity to pursue his own artistic interests. So, he traveled the world, honing his skills.
Jensen worked with ceramics, silver, and in 1904 opened his workshop in the center of Copenhagen. Here he became widely recognized for the elaborate jewelry in the art-deco style.
Although Jensen himself was an adherent of the modernist style, he had the wisdom and foresight to give the designer freedom of expression. Accordingly, this expanded his stylistic framework as a manufacturer and allowed him to keep up with the times.
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Parrot on a branch brooch. 1940s. Gold tone jewelry alloy, rhinestones, red yellow and green enamel. 8 cm. Jose Rodriguez vintage costume jewelry. Marked at back with letter ‘S’ in a Star and ‘Made in USA’

Jose Rodriguez vintage costume jewelry
Unfortunately, there is little information about the Jose Rodriguez jewelry brand. According to “American Costume Jewelry 1935-50” by Carla Ginelli Brunialti, Rodriguez was a Cuban citizen resident in New York. Patented by him several designs in 1940s included parrot on a branch, toucan, swallow and fish brooches, featured in this post. Traditionally, Jose Rodriguez used gold and silver tone metal, multicolor enamel, glass cabochons, lucite, faux pearls and rhinestones. Noteworthy is his Bird series with parrots, toucans, firebirds, swallows and peacocks. Undoubtedly, nature inspired Jose Rodriguez decorations is truly a rarity, desirable for collectors of vintage costume jewelry.
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1994 brooch depicting piano, calla lilies, embossed heart with iris, Victorian woman, cameo brooch with malachite color cabochon stone and prong set white round rhinestones. Ramona Crutcher vintage handmade jewelry

Ramona Crutcher vintage handmade jewelry
The author of this gorgeous Victorian style brooch is Lebanon Tenessi based jewelry designer Ramona Crutcher. Born 30 August 1953, Ramona, teacher by profession, created gorgeous handmade jewelry pieces in small qiantities. Created mostly in 1990s, all signed Ramona Cratcher decorations have become vintage rarity now. Traditionally, the jeweler used brass tone metal as the base and cabochons imitating natural stones, as well as rhinestones. The design of her high quality decorations is very beautiful, made in Art Deco, Victorian or mixed styles. Besides, each piece – brooch or hair barrette have quite a complicated design which included many cast brass pieces. For example, one hair barrette design included piano, calla lilies, embossed heart with iris, Victorian woman in a hat, etc.
Noteworthy, the designer usually signed her decorations “Ramona Crutcher”, or “Jewelry by Ramona”.
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