Kaleidoscope effect

Antique brooch in the form of an oak leaf from silver, inserts from natural turquoise and jewelry glasses, patina. 4.2 cm. Before 1950s. Turquoise stone magic properties

Turquoise stone magic properties
Called “Heavenly stone” in ancient times, turquoise certainly has magical properties. The Roman historian Pliny the Elder in the 1st century AD enthusiastically wrote about the Persian turquoise. According to him, it is “bluer than the azure of heaven” and for getting it “the caravans of merchants equip themselves to distant Khorasan”. Even then, turquoise entered the markets of the East from Persian mines. Further, through Turkey, it crossed to Europe, where it always found numerous fans.

Stone of victory and wealth

Turquoise, set in gold, adorned the robes of royalty and representatives of the nobility. Persian turquoise means “winner”. Considered a stone of victory in Muslim countries, “the mere sight of which is equivalent to reading the Koran”. In the East, from ancient times they attribute to it miraculous, magical power and wear it as a talisman.
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Opera Lady Fedora with a Butterfly brooch pin. Gold tone metal, enamel, crystals. Erte Art Deco jewelry

Erte Art Deco jewelry
The works of Russian-born French artist and designer Romain de Tirtoff (November 23, 1892 – April 21, 1990) were admired by George Balanchine and Andy Warhol. In the early 1970s, when interest in Art Deco flared up with renewed vigor, Erte achieved worldwide fame. In 1976 he was awarded the French Order of Arts and Literature. Around this period, he manages to fulfill his long-held dream of creating his own line of jewelry.

“The father of art deco” launches a series of jewelry made from his drawings of 1920-30s. Traditionally, Erte jewelers used 14 carat gold, sterling silver, rubies, diamonds, topazes, amethysts, mother of pearl, lapis lazuli and black onyx. Jewelry of this brand is rarity sold at special auctions.
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‘Remembrance’ brooch. Gold tone metal, gold plated, Swarovski crystals, enamel. 6.5 cm. 1960s. Gontie Paris vintage costume jewelry

Gontie Paris vintage costume jewelry
Belonged to the group, founded in 1890, GONTIÉ Paris maintains a handicraft spirit using the most advanced technology. Gontié has both a creative workshop and a production workshop for various jewelry. Traditionally, brand jewelers use gold, silver, jewelry alloy, recycled glass, enamel, high-quality crystals and rhinestones. All Gontié jewelry is exclusive, including the entire process of creating jewelry – from design, selection of materials and decoration. In addition, all products have official markings, which indicates the level of quality of their creations. As a result, the jewelry of this brand is represented at 200 points of sale in France. Noteworthy, Gontie switched to direct online sales in 2009 by launching its online store (gontie-bijoux.fr) selling collections on the site at producer prices. However, in 2015 the online store ceased to exist.
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Set of earrings and a brooch. Sterling silver, 14k gold, tourmaline, amethyst and turquoise cabochons. 1997 work by Japanese jewelry designer Yumi Ueno

Japanese jewelry designer Yumi Ueno
Yumi Ueno jewelry – three-dimensional geometric abstractions and bizarre, humorous fantasies. Traditionally, to create her works, she uses precious and semiprecious stones, as well as gold and sterling silver. According to Ueno, she prefers to use semiprecious stones because the variety of their colors, structures and shapes attract her.
Born in Japan, she studied Graphic Design at Musashino Art University, Tokyo (1970-74). Nearly twenty years later, she mastered Silversmithing at the Barnsdall Art Center, Los Angeles (1989-90). A talented artist and jewelry designer, Ueno has participated in numerous art exhibitions in galleries and museums, where she has received well-deserved awards. In particular, the first place at exhibitions in 1995, 1996, 1998, 1989, 2001, 2002, 2013, and 2014 in California, Illinois and Arizona. Also, the work of the designer periodically appears on the pages of prestigious magazines, newspapers and directories of art galleries and art festivals. For example, the San Francisco Chronicle, Best of America Jewelry Artists, American Craft Magazine, Lapidary Journal, New York Magazine, New York Times, etc.
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Winter Fruit brooch pendant. Enamel, gold, silver. American jewelry designer Heinz Brummel

American jewelry designer Heinz Brummel
Combining old traditions and quality with a modern design, Heinz Brummel creates unique jewelry. Observing the formal requirements of “fine art,” he goes beyond the traditional approaches to creating jewelry. In particular, in a combination of precious and non-precious materials, which the master “alchemizes” into exquisite objects of jewelry art. As a result, we see a personal decoration in the field of fine art, a miniature sculpture in the macro world. According to Brummel, jewelry designers of the 19th and early 20th centuries such as Klee, Calder, Miro and the Bauhaus inspire him.
Born in 1955 in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA, into a family of German immigrants, Heinz Brummel is a talented jewelry designer. Noteworthy, a self-taught artist, Brummel has participated in numerous group and solo jewelry exhibitions in the United States, as well as abroad since 1981. Brummel works are in collections of famous institutions. In particular, the Renwick Gallery at the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC and the Minnesota Museum of American Art. Also, at the Wustum Museum of Fine Arts, Racine Wisconsin.
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Heart abstract design brooch pendant. Silver tone, crystal. Xavier Loubens haute couture jewelry

Xavier Loubens haute couture jewelry

Jeweler and designer Xavier Loubens together with d’Eduardo Braza created the Lumen Fashion House in Paris in 1990. At the very beginning of his career, Loubens had an internship at Givenchy Fashion House. Now he collaborates with several leading young French stylists and the largest European fashion houses. In particular, Guy Laroche, Patou, Balenciaga, Rochas, Givenchy, Vionnet, Christian Lacroix, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Dior. All of them consider the style of Xavier Loubens jewelry, accessories and fittings, its designs, the processing methods of metals, crystals and decorative modules – unique. As a result, all these famous fashion houses order from Xavier Loubens prêt-à-porter and haute couture jewelry, buttons, and decorative modules for embroidering fabrics and shoes for their collections.
According to Xavier Loubens, he doesn’t like clear things. He likes to mix precious metals and stones and so called “bad taste” materials: plates of thin brass, rhinestones, plastic and resin. “It is fair, fresh and always unique”.
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Christmas Bell Brooch. Gold tone metal, jewelry enamel, faux pearl. 1995. Olit Jewelry Inc vintage costume jewelry

Olit Jewelry Inc vintage costume jewelry
According to available records, the work of privately held company Olit Jewelry Inc began in 1987. Its address was 38 Lockhart Ave, Warwick, Rhode Island, the US. Categorized under Novelty and Costume Jewelry Manufacturers, the company’s headed by its president Richard Litterio, and employed a staff of approximately 15.
Traditionally, creating their jewelry pieces, the designers used pewter-silver or gold tone metal, lucite, enamel, Swarovski crystals and rhinestones. Also, they marked their jewelry pieces “Olit Inc., ©”, US and the year of production. Noteworthy, most pieces have the markings with the year of production – 1995. Unfortunately, there is not enough information about the company. The last mention of the company dates back to 2002. In addition, the link to the website does not work, and no activity on social networks. Following these observations, I came to the conclusion that the company named Olit Jewelry Inc stopped manufacturing jewelry before 2000 and ceased to exist in the early 2000s.
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