Kaleidoscope effect

Oh la la perfume bottle brooch. Brass, amber color lucite, plastic. 6.8 cm. 1993. Loris Azzaro vintage costume jewelry

Loris Azzaro vintage costume jewelry
The history of the Azzaro brand has been traditionally traced back to 1962, when its founder, Loris Azzaro, came to Paris. Born into an Italian family in Tunisia, Azzaro spent his childhood and youth there. He studied in Toulouse, France, and after graduation taught French and Italian in Tunisia. However, the turning point in his biography became his arrival in Paris in 1962.
An innovator with impeccable taste, a writer, and a talented designer, Loris immediately began creating original accessories. At first, he gave them to his wife Michelle Carsy, and close friends, but very quickly his fame spread throughout all the fashionistas of Paris. Among the fans of his talent were the brightest stars of that time. In particular, Brigitte Bordeaux, Claudia Cardinale, Sophia Loren, Liza Minnelli, Barbara Streisand, Romy Schneider, Nicole Kidman, Kate Winslet, Isabelle Adjani and many more. Also, among his clients were such high society figures as the Princess of Monaco, the Empress of Iran, and the Duchess of Orleans.
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Medieval Woman playing the lute brooch. Silver, gold plated, faux baroque pearl. 7 cm. 1940s. Signed Estabell Sterling vintage costume jewelry

Estabell Sterling vintage costume jewelry
San Francisco, California based jewelry company which signed its products “Sterling Estabell” in the 1940s remains unknown. At least, there was no officially registered brand or company with this name in the 1930s-50s. Anyway, the mysterious company produced high quality costume jewelry, sold in boutiques and large stores, such as Neiman Marcus. According to some sources, Estabell comes from the name of its designer Esther Campbell or Bell.
Exquisitely handcrafted figurative brooches and earrings made by Estabell confirm the fact that jewelry is a wearable art. The museum worth designs included medieval women playing the lute, or Japanese figures of men and women with lanterns, warriors with shields, or mythological heroes.
Traditionally, the designer used silver and gold plating, as well as rich inserts of stones, mother-of-pearl, colorful rhinestones and baroque pearls. The marking on the back side of each piece includes “Estabell Sterling” without copyright sign.
Hard to find Estabell costume jewelry, the price of which will increase every year, is highly collectible now.
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Dogwood flower brooch. Gold plated topas glass cabochon brooch. 5.5 cm. 1920s. Kollmar Jourdan vintage costume jewelry

Kollmar Jourdan vintage costume jewelry
The history of the Kollmar & Jourdan jewelry company began in the jewelry capital of Germany, the city of Pforzheim, in 1885. Initially, the founders of the company Emil Kollmar and Wilhelm Jourdan focused on the production of watch cases, straps and jewelry with silver and gold plating. Also, they produced gold plated nickel chains, and later American double gold plated chains. The company expanded its production and became known both in Germany and throughout Europe and America. So, after fifteen years of successful work, in 1900, the company employed almost 400 workers. Traditionally, the craftsmen of the company marked the products with the initials KJ crossed by an arrow.
As a result of World War II, the factory was destroyed. However, a few years later it was restored and returned to its former glory, focusing on the production of jewelry. The company ceased to exist in 1975.
Handcrafted, high-quality gold and silver jewelry marked with KJ are now highly collectible.
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Dew drop on leaf gold filled brooch. 1960s. Imperial Pearl vintage costume jewelry

Imperial Pearl vintage costume jewelry
The history of the Imperial Pearl jewelry company began over 100 years ago, in 1917 in the jewelry capital of the USA, Providence. Its owner Joseph Gladstone later renamed it to “Imperial Pearl Syndicate” in 1941. For jewelry, the designers used Akoya pearls, pearls from the Tahitian islands, South Sea pearls, freshwater pearls and Keshi pearls. The company held a leading position in the pearl jewelry market, and its jewelry was very popular with fashionistas of that time, however, as it is now. High quality, made of silver and gold plated, this costume jewelry is highly collectible. Hollywood stars, such as Elizabeth Taylor, Shirley Temple, and Loretta Young took part in the company’s advertising campaigns.
Noteworthy, in the period from 1928 to 1969, the company registered several trademarks. In particular, Marslieu (1928 – 1948), Imperial (1943 – 1986), and Sculpted Pearls (1952 – 1992).
Gladstone sold the company to Sidney Weiss in 1969.
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Clown with a ball brooch. Gold plated sterling silver, art glass, plastic, rhinestones. 6.9 cm. 1947. Book piece. Designer Frederick J.Pearsall. Marslieu vintage costume jewelry

Marslieu vintage costume jewelry
Traditionally, while expanding their business, many large jewelry companies registered several jewelry trademarks. And the Imperial Pearl Company, later the Imperial Pearl Syndicate, is no exception. For more than a hundred years of operation, Imperial Pearl has registered several trademarks. Specifically, the first brand was Marslieu (1928 – 1948), followed by Imperial (1943 – 1986). Also, Sculpted Pearls (1952 – 1992), Chicago Syndicate(1976 – 1982), Chandelle(1977 – 1983), Sabre (1976 – 1983), and Attachments (1993 – 2001).
The first products labeled Marslieu appeared in 1928. These were handcrafted figural costume decorations made with the use of sterling silver, gold plating, rhinestones and luminous faux pearls. The marking on the back side of each item included the word “Marslieu” in writing letters and “Sterling Silver Pat Pend” on oval base. Frederick J.Pearsall was the main designer of the company. Located at 7 Beverly St. Providence 3, Rhode Island, Marslieu was active for two decades, from 1928 to 1948.
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Floral design gold plated brooch. 1965. 4.7 cm. Henkel Grosse vintage costume jewelry

Henkel Grosse vintage costume jewelry
The history of Henkel and Grosse began in 1907, in the German capital of jewelers – the city of Pforzheim, when Heinrich Henkel and his brother-in-law Florentin Grosse opened their own company. The firm grew, and in the mid-1920s, the designers established the first business contacts with the United States. Ten years later, they worked with such fashion houses as Lanvin and Schiaparelli in Paris, as well as Harrods in London and Saks in New York. In 1937, Henkel & Grosse was awarded the Medal of Honor at the World Exhibition in Paris for the innovative design of jewelry, as well as for the creation of new technologies in their production.

Many Dior jewelry lovers know the name “Henkel & Grosse”. The creative union of these famous designers took place in the post-war years. Dior was looking for new forms and turned to the best designers of the time – Kramer, Grosse and others. A new stage in the history of the company took place in 1955. Henkel and Grosse got the license for the design, production and sale of luxury jewelry for the Dior brand. Art, technique and craftsmanship managed to overcome the political tensions between France and Germany, former adversaries. A separate company Christian Dior Bijoux was created. However, Henkel & Grosse continued to produce their own jewelry under their own brand. Noteworthy, the licensing agreement lasted over 50 years.
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Chinese Maid fur clip. Gold plated metal alloy, enamel. 1940s. Walter Lampl vintage costume jewelry

Walter Lampl vintage costume jewelry
The history of the American jewelry brand “Walter Lampl” began after the Second World War, in 1945. Its founder, Walter Lampl Sr. was born in 1895 to a poor family in New York. Since childhood, he had to work, selling newspapers on the streets and dreaming of a better life. His ambition, coupled with his talent, paid off. First, he bought long chains and shortened them to fit a watch. Thus, he earned his first money to start hiw own business. Gradually, he took a more serious interest in the jewelry business. Already in 1921, at the age of 26, he founded a wholesale jewelry company of the same name, with an office and showroom at New York’s 47th Street. In fact, it was a family business of Walter, his wife and their growing son.
Traditionally, the designer created quality jewelry using gold filling, sterling silver, moonstone and rhinestones. Known for the quality and exceptional designs, Walter’s jewelry was very popular. Realistic hand-made insect brooches and pins, as well as unique figurative brooches, are now rare and highly collectible. Until 1945, jewelry markings on the back of items included “Sterling” and the initials “WL” in script in a shield.
Unfortunately, Walter passed away in 1945 at the age of 50. His wife and son continued his business, but in 1959 the company ceased to exist.
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