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Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

The flamingo brooch commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for the Duchess in 1940 as a birthday gift. Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house
The famous brooch-flamingo, made by Cartier in 1940. Acquired by the Duke of Windsor directly before the German occupation, designed by Jeanne Toussaint. The plot and the generous size of the brooch make it exceptional for this period. After the sale of the Duchess of Windsor’s jewelry at the Sotheby’s auction in Geneva in 1987, numerous copies of this brooch, both with precious stones and rhinestones, appeared on the market.
Born Louis-Francois Cartier in 1819 in France, his family was not welalthy. His father was engaged in the production of horns for gunpowder, and the boy’s mother was sure that he would follow in the footsteps of his father. However, even at an early age, Louis showed a penchant for art. Fortunately, parents decided to develop his talent, and Louis Francois went to Paris to study at Adolf Picard’s workshop. And when Cartier was 26 years old, he bought a Piccard jewelery workshop.
Six years later Cartier opened a second workshop in Paris. Two weeks after the opening of the second Cartier salon, the best friend of Princess Matilda, the niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, entered the shop. Naturally, then Cartier did not even suspect this, and the countess, meanwhile, bought three brooches. According to belief, it was precisely with these brooches that the star path of the greatest jeweler began.

Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Collection of jewelry in Indian style with carved colored stones. 1930. Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Having examined the brooches more closely, the Countess, fell in love with the work of the master. Next, she showed her unsurpassed purchases to Princess Mathilde and Empress Eugenia, the wife of Napoleon the Third. Of course, all women who were true connoisseurs of jewelry art, appreciated the amazing decorations. For three years the royal people have purchased from Louis Cartier more than 150 ornaments. Undoubtedly, Cartier gained fame from all high-ranking individuals, and Princess Mathilde became patroness of Cartier. Of course, this patronage was incredibly useful for Cartier.

Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Necklace-bib with gold and precious stones. October 1945. Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Necklace-bib with gold and precious stones, October 1945. When the Duchess of Windsor first put on this necklace, it produced a furor. Interestingly, the Windsors themselves provided precious stones for the products ordered by them. This necklace is divided into two semi-precious brooches, two pairs of earrings and an emerald ring.

Noteworthy, Louis Francois Cartier, in addition to jewelry, produced perfume bottles and toilet water, buckles and various handbags. The French, who were always avid for everything beautiful and even pretentious, made lots of orders.

The vast majority of the royal families of Europe had their own accounts in the shops of Cartier.

Products of jewelers exhibited at the Salon of Paris in 1925, influenced all jewelry production of the 1920s-1930s, contributing to the approval of the Art Deco style. “Cartier” took a new style, but adhered to the moderation, style and balance, characteristic of this famous house. The Cartier art deco style of the 1920s was based, rather, on the strict geometric constructions of the garland style than on the experiments of Cubist artists. Also, the Far East, India and Persia influenced the design, choice of subjects, materials and chromatic combinations in Cartier products. Original Indian carved beads and Chinese mother of pearl plates with inlay with oriental motifs were in the decorations of the Cartier House. Chinese pagodas, chimeras and dragons, Egyptian hieroglyphs, stylized animals and flowers in abundance adorn and products in the European spirit.

In the mid-1920s, Cartier offered fashionable earrings-bells in Indian style, consisting of a pommel in the shape of a diamond, with a cluster of cabochons, reminiscent of a bunch of grapes.

By the end of the 1930s, stylized natural motifs flooded in jewelry art inspired Cartier to create series of exquisite brooches. In particular, ladybirds, roses and camellias, as well as his famous clips in the form of an Indian head or a Moor carved from stone and decorated with enamel and diamonds.

Jade brooch from c.1650–1750, inlaid with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds, remade by Cartier c.1930

Jade brooch from c.1650–1750, inlaid with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds, remade by Cartier c.1930. Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

The enchantment of Egypt and the Pharaohs inspired jewelers to create many wide bracelets-ribbons studded with diamonds and decorated with Egyptian architectural motifs, sphinxes, scarabs and lotus flowers. Cartier achieved perfection in the manufacture of Indian style bracelets, which consisted of leaves, flowers and berries cut from rubies, emeralds and sapphires.

Environmental issues, the destruction of flora and fauna made many jewelers turn to nature in search of themes for their products in the 1980s and 1990s. The motif of the Panther, which became for the House “Cartier” a symbol of aggressive female sensuality and mobility, satisfied the tastes of a modern woman.

Currently, “Cartier” is an incredibly popular brand of jewelry dynasty. Knowledge in the field of jewelry art Louis Francois passed to his son Alfred.

After the heirs of the family dynasty were three sons of Alfred – Louis Joseph, Pierre Camille and Jacques Theodul. They played a role in the history of the development of the family business, because they made the brand name world famous. Pierre promoted the brand in Russia and the United States, and Jacques developed business in the countries of the Persian Gulf. While younger brothers were working to expand the geography of sales, the elder Louis Joseph made beautiful jewelry. They enjoyed success, were unique and became a guarantee of incredible popularity.

Chrysoberyl bracelet. Beads supporting a 32.93-carat morganite, an 8.16-carat orange sapphire, and four colored sapphires. Set with brilliant-cut diamonds

Chrysoberyl bracelet. Beads supporting a 32.93-carat morganite, an 8.16-carat orange sapphire, and four colored sapphires. Set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Interesting Facts:

1. It was Cartier who were the first to use platinum in jewelry art.
 
2. Cartier was the first watchmaker who began to popularize the wristwatch.
 
3. King Edward VII of England declared that Cartier was “Jeweler of kings and king among jewelers”. In fact, Cartier received this recognition not only in England. He was also a favorite of the French king Napoleon III, King of Portugal Carlos I, and the king of the Russian Empire Nicholas II.

Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

sources
Jewelry catalog, magazine Platinum,
Fischel A.- Jewel A Celebration of Earth’s Treasures – 2016