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Jewellery kaleidoscope

Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

The flamingo brooch commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for the Duchess in 1940 as a birthday gift. Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house
The famous brooch-flamingo, made by Cartier in 1940. Acquired by the Duke of Windsor directly before the German occupation, designed by Jeanne Toussaint. The plot and the generous size of the brooch make it exceptional for this period. After the sale of the Duchess of Windsor’s jewelry at the Sotheby’s auction in Geneva in 1987, numerous copies of this brooch, both with precious stones and rhinestones, appeared on the market.
Born Louis-Francois Cartier in 1819 in France, his family was not welalthy. His father was engaged in the production of horns for gunpowder, and the boy’s mother was sure that he would follow in the footsteps of his father. However, even at an early age, Louis showed a penchant for art. Fortunately, parents decided to develop his talent, and Louis Francois went to Paris to study at Adolf Picard’s workshop. And when Cartier was 26 years old, he bought a Piccard jewelery workshop.
Six years later Cartier opened a second workshop in Paris. Two weeks after the opening of the second Cartier salon, the best friend of Princess Matilda, the niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, entered the shop. Naturally, then Cartier did not even suspect this, and the countess, meanwhile, bought three brooches. According to belief, it was precisely with these brooches that the star path of the greatest jeweler began.

Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Collection of jewelry in Indian style with carved colored stones. 1930. Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Having examined the brooches more closely, the Countess, fell in love with the work of the master. Next, she showed her unsurpassed purchases to Princess Mathilde and Empress Eugenia, the wife of Napoleon the Third. Of course, all women who were true connoisseurs of jewelry art, appreciated the amazing decorations. For three years the royal people have purchased from Louis Cartier more than 150 ornaments. Undoubtedly, Cartier gained fame from all high-ranking individuals, and Princess Mathilde became patroness of Cartier. Of course, this patronage was incredibly useful for Cartier.

Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Necklace-bib with gold and precious stones. October 1945. Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Necklace-bib with gold and precious stones, October 1945. When the Duchess of Windsor first put on this necklace, it produced a furor. Interestingly, the Windsors themselves provided precious stones for the products ordered by them. This necklace is divided into two semi-precious brooches, two pairs of earrings and an emerald ring.

Noteworthy, Louis Francois Cartier, in addition to jewelry, produced perfume bottles and toilet water, buckles and various handbags. The French, who were always avid for everything beautiful and even pretentious, made lots of orders.

The vast majority of the royal families of Europe had their own accounts in the shops of Cartier.

Products of jewelers exhibited at the Salon of Paris in 1925, influenced all jewelry production of the 1920s-1930s, contributing to the approval of the Art Deco style. “Cartier” took a new style, but adhered to the moderation, style and balance, characteristic of this famous house. The Cartier art deco style of the 1920s was based, rather, on the strict geometric constructions of the garland style than on the experiments of Cubist artists. Also, the Far East, India and Persia influenced the design, choice of subjects, materials and chromatic combinations in Cartier products. Original Indian carved beads and Chinese mother of pearl plates with inlay with oriental motifs were in the decorations of the Cartier House. Chinese pagodas, chimeras and dragons, Egyptian hieroglyphs, stylized animals and flowers in abundance adorn and products in the European spirit.

In the mid-1920s, Cartier offered fashionable earrings-bells in Indian style, consisting of a pommel in the shape of a diamond, with a cluster of cabochons, reminiscent of a bunch of grapes.

By the end of the 1930s, stylized natural motifs flooded in jewelry art inspired Cartier to create series of exquisite brooches. In particular, ladybirds, roses and camellias, as well as his famous clips in the form of an Indian head or a Moor carved from stone and decorated with enamel and diamonds.

Jade brooch from c.1650–1750, inlaid with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds, remade by Cartier c.1930

Jade brooch from c.1650–1750, inlaid with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds, remade by Cartier c.1930. Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

The enchantment of Egypt and the Pharaohs inspired jewelers to create many wide bracelets-ribbons studded with diamonds and decorated with Egyptian architectural motifs, sphinxes, scarabs and lotus flowers. Cartier achieved perfection in the manufacture of Indian style bracelets, which consisted of leaves, flowers and berries cut from rubies, emeralds and sapphires.

Impressive Panther set, diamond, onyx and emeralds. 1990

Impressive Panther set, diamond, onyx and emeralds. 1990

Environmental issues, the destruction of flora and fauna made many jewelers turn to nature in search of themes for their products in the 1980s and 1990s. The motif of the Panther, which became for the House “Cartier” a symbol of aggressive female sensuality and mobility, satisfied the tastes of a modern woman.

Currently, “Cartier” is an incredibly popular brand of jewelry dynasty. Knowledge in the field of jewelry art Louis Francois passed to his son Alfred.

After the heirs of the family dynasty were three sons of Alfred – Louis Joseph, Pierre Camille and Jacques Theodul. They played a role in the history of the development of the family business, because they made the brand name world famous. Pierre promoted the brand in Russia and the United States, and Jacques developed business in the countries of the Persian Gulf. While younger brothers were working to expand the geography of sales, the elder Louis Joseph made beautiful jewelry. They enjoyed success, were unique and became a guarantee of incredible popularity.

Chrysoberyl bracelet. Beads supporting a 32.93-carat morganite, an 8.16-carat orange sapphire, and four colored sapphires. Set with brilliant-cut diamonds

Chrysoberyl bracelet. Beads supporting a 32.93-carat morganite, an 8.16-carat orange sapphire, and four colored sapphires. Set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Interesting Facts:

1. It was Cartier who were the first to use platinum in jewelry art.
 
2. Cartier was the first watchmaker who began to popularize the wristwatch.
 
3. King Edward VII of England declared that Cartier was “Jeweler of kings and king among jewelers”. In fact, Cartier received this recognition not only in England. He was also a favorite of the French king Napoleon III, King of Portugal Carlos I, and the king of the Russian Empire Nicholas II.

Chrysoberyl bracelet. Beads supporting a 32.93-carat morganite, an 8.16-carat orange sapphire, and four colored sapphires. Set with brilliant-cut diamonds

Chrysoberyl bracelet. Beads supporting a 32.93-carat morganite, an 8.16-carat orange sapphire, and four colored sapphires. Set with brilliant-cut diamonds

Long history of famous Cartier jewelry house

Bracelet with aquamarines and diamonds. Around 1930

Bracelet with aquamarines and diamonds. Circa 1930

Bracelet with rubies, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds. 1930

Unique bracelet with rubies, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds. 1930

Brooch with corals, emeralds, black enamel and diamonds of Cartier. About 1925

Brooch with corals, emeralds, black enamel and diamonds of Cartier. About 1925

Brooch with sapphire, rhinestone and diamonds. 1925-1930

Blue sapphire brooch with rhinestone and diamonds. 1925-1930

Clip of gold with enamel and diamonds. 1935

Clip of gold with enamel and diamonds. 1935

Diamond tiara by Cartier. 1911. Expressive pattern of the garland style

Made in 1911 Diamond tiara. Expressive pattern of the garland style

Diamond wrist watch. 1920-1925

Diamond wrist watch. 1920-1925

Epaulette with emeralds and diamonds. 1920. Worn on the shoulder so that the suspension was in front on the chest or from behind on the back. Until now, there are very few of them

Epaulette with emeralds and diamonds. 1920. Worn on the shoulder so that the suspension was in front on the chest or from behind on the back. Until now, there are very few of them

Gold set with rubies, sapphires and diamonds. 1945. London

Gold set with rubies, sapphires and diamonds. 1945. London

Necklace with rubies and diamonds by Cartier. 1930. To the necklace was also attached a gold bracelet, on which it was possible to attach two side clips

Rubies and diamonds necklace. 1930. To the necklace was also attached a gold bracelet, on which it was possible to attach two side clips. Cartier jewelry house

Necklace with sapphires and diamonds from the collection of the Duchess of Windsor. 1940

Exquisite Necklace with sapphires and diamonds from the collection of the Duchess of Windsor. 1940. Cartier jewelry house

Necklace-bib with gold and turquoise and amethyst. Cartier. 1947

Necklace-bib with gold and turquoise and amethyst. Cartier. 1947

Pendant Necklace, onyx and diamonds - a mixture of classical and oriental influences. 1920. Paris. In the early 1920's Cartier produced many such ornaments

A mixture of classical and oriental influences – pendant necklace, onyx and diamonds. 1920. Paris. In the early 1920’s Cartier produced many similar ornaments

One of the most popular varieties of brooch for a hat from onyx with emeralds and diamonds. 1920-1925. Paris

One of the most popular varieties of brooch for a hat from onyx with emeralds and diamonds. 1920-1925. Paris

Panther bracelet. Onyx and diamonds. 1952. Part of the famous 'cat' collection belonging to the Duchess of Windsor

Panther bracelet. Onyx and diamonds. 1952. Part of the famous ‘cat’ collection belonging to the Duchess of Windsor

Parure gold with diamonds. 1990. Environmental themes made jewelers turn to nature. The motif of the Panther, became for Cartier a symbol of the aggressive sensuality and mobility of a modern woman

Parure gold with diamonds. 1990. Environmental themes made jewelers turn to nature. The motif of the Panther, became for Cartier a symbol of the aggressive sensuality and mobility of a modern woman

Powder box made of gold and platinum with diamonds and black enamel. 1930

Powder box made of gold and platinum with diamonds and black enamel. 1930

Powder box made of gold with enamel, jade and diamonds. Around 1925

Powder box made of gold with enamel, jade and diamonds. Around 1925

Rare Powder box, lapis lazuli, jade, corals and diamonds in oriental style. 1925

Rare Powder box, lapis lazuli, jade, corals and diamonds in oriental style. 1925

Semi-parure of gold and diamonds, including a necklace and bracelet with motifs of coffee beans. 1953

Semi-parure of gold and diamonds, including a necklace and bracelet with motifs of coffee beans. 1953

The bracelet- 'ladder' with emeralds and diamonds. The late 1930s

The bracelet- ‘ladder’ with emeralds and diamonds. The late 1930s

Watch with pearls, onyx and diamonds. 1920

Watch, pearls, onyx and diamonds. 1920

1930's, an exquisite specimen of Cartier's work with diamonds, aquamarines and sapphires consists of detachable clips

1930’s, Cartier’s work, diamonds, aquamarines and sapphires consists of detachable clips

Panther ring. 18-karat yellow gold from the Panthère de Cartier collection features peridot eyes, an onyx nose, and lacquer accents. The wearer’s finger goes through the open mouth

Panther ring. 18-karat yellow gold from the Panthère de Cartier collection features peridot eyes, an onyx nose, and lacquer accents. The wearer’s finger goes through the open mouth

Two views of 2008 limited-edition gold pen. Dragon motif, set with 522 diamonds, six emeralds, and ruby eyes. Finished in black lacquer

Two views of 2008 limited-edition gold pen. Dragon motif, set with 522 diamonds, six emeralds, and ruby eyes. Finished in black lacquer

Paris Nouvelle Vague 18-karat gold bracelet. Spinels, diamonds, pink and yellow sapphires, green garnets, amethysts, emeralds, and fire opals, set into 252 cups carved from lapis lazuli

Paris Nouvelle Vague 18-karat gold bracelet. Spinels, diamonds, pink and yellow sapphires, green garnets, amethysts, emeralds, and fire opals, set into 252 cups carved from lapis lazuli

Tutti Frutti necklace. 1936. 43cm. Briolette-cut sapphires, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, platinum, white gold

Tutti Frutti necklace. 1936. 43cm. Briolette-cut sapphires, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, platinum, white gold

Lizard brooch. 13.71-carat cat’s eye tourmaline, set with sapphires and diamonds

Lizard brooch. 13.71-carat cat’s eye tourmaline, set with sapphires and diamonds

A 1909 diamond and platinum corsage ornament by Cartier showcases the Versailles motifs - flowers, ribbons, and scrolls. Large circular-cut diamonds accent the festoons. At the center is a pear-shaped diamond in a diamond-collet frame, a signature Cartier motif.

A 1909 diamond and platinum corsage ornament by Cartier showcases the Versailles
motifs – flowers, ribbons, and scrolls. Large circular-cut diamonds accent the festoons. At the center is a pear-shaped diamond in a diamond-collet frame, a
signature Cartier motif.

A pair of birds on a branch, brooch

A pair of birds on a branch, brooch

Blue Bird cabochons and gold tone metal brooch

Blue Bird cabochons and gold tone metal brooch

Exotic bird brooch

Exotic bird brooch

Flying bird brooch

Flying bird brooch

From the series of Bird brooches

From the series of Bird brooches

Lovely bird brooch

Lovely bird brooch

sources
Jewelry catalog, magazine Platinum,
Fischel A.- Jewel A Celebration of Earth’s Treasures – 2016