Jewellery Kaleidoscope

Jewelry trademark history

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Henrietta Kanengeiser (March 15, 1889- 22 February 1956) Legendary Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Legendary Hattie Carnegie jewellery
Born Henrietta Kanengeiser on March 15, 1889 in Vienna, Austria, Hattie Carnegie became a legendary American jewelry and fashion designer in the 1920s-1950s. She was the second of seven children of Isaac Kanengeiser and his wife Helen Kranczer. In 1900 their family emigrated to the United States of America. The 16-year-old Henrietta worked as a secretary in the Macy’s Store, one of the famous New York department stores. Noteworthy, it was her father, Jewish tailor, who had introduced her to the world of fashion. Elegant and beautiful Henrietta designed her own clothes and accessories. Meanwhile, Henrietta adopted the name Hattie Carnegie after she had met the local dressmaker Rose Ruth Purchaser. In 1909 Hattie Carnegie and Rose Ruth opened their own fashion business on East 49th Street in New York. Nine years later she founded the Hattie Carnegie, Inc.

Carnegie Watcher Man behind the fence figural brooch, from 'People Watcher' collection sold in the 1960s

Watcher Man behind the fence figural brooch, from ‘People Watcher’ collection sold in the 1960s

Carnegie’s elegant couture collection and secondary ready-to-wear lines were revolutionary in the sense that they introduced ready-to-wear to the high-end market. She pioneered the ‘head-to-hem’ boutique concept that paved the way for the future success of Ralph Lauren in America. In particular, Hattie Carnegie collection which included fashion jewellery, lingerie, hats and perfume in the range. Stylishly understated, yet elegant and luxurious – as she also corresponded to the American taste in fashion until the late 1920s. The made-to-order department was headed by Pauline Fairfax Potter for about a decade.

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

1960’s Enamel Metal Flower Pin Brooch

In 1925 Hattie Carnegie signed a contract with Isaac Magnin, who allowed her to open stores in Macy’s. Hattie Carnegie designs came to Hollywood attention and appeared later in their productions. Famous designers such as Norman Norell, Pauline Trigere, James Galanos, Ward Bennett and Jean Louis learned the craft from her. Her clients included, among others, Joan Crawford, the Duchess of Windsor and Baroness de Rothschild.

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Blue Glass Belly Owl Brooch, Figural

Noteworthy, commissioned by the U.S. Army during the Korean War (1950-1953) Carnegie designed new uniforms for female military corps. As a result, the company received the highest civilian award from the Army (WAC) – the Congressional Medal of Freedom. Also, awarded for other charitable and patriotic contributions. The uniform was in use until 1968.

Circus Clown figural brooch. Lucite, enamel, rhinestones

Circus Clown figural brooch. Lucite, enamel, rhinestones

Carnegie married Zanft John (1883-1960) in 1928, the marriage remained childless. When Carnegie died in 1956 in New York, Zanft John became the owner of an eight million businesses.

Carnegie Maker's mark

Maker’s mark

Carnegie jewelry, produced since 1918, enjoyed the attention of the elite, including Talulu Bankhead, Joan Fontaine, Norma Shearer and Joan Crawford.

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Hattie Carnegie jewellery. Vintage Dragon Lucite & Rhinestone Vintage Pin

Dragon Lucite & Rhinestone Vintage Pin

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Bright enamel gold tone brooch

Traditionally, Carnegie attracted different designers to work, and her jewelry reflects different styles. Flowers, fruits and leaves are constantly repeating motifs, but the eastern influence is noticeable in brooches in the form of stylized animals. Her favorite materials in very unusual combinations were enamel, artificial pearls, rock crystal and glass beads. Ornaments of the brand “Hatti Carnegie”, “Carnegie” or “HC” of excellent quality and today remain as popular as in the year of their creation.

Pink lucite gold tone rhinestones Fish brooch. 4.5 cm. 1960s

Pink lucite gold tone rhinestones Fish brooch. 4.5 cm. 1960s

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Blue glass cabochons rhinestone clamper bracelet of gold tone

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Ice clear rhinestone salmon shrimp pin

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Large bell flower clip earrings rhinestone and faux pearl

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Clown brooch. Enamel Lucite Rhinestones

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Tiger cat pin

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Parure rhinestone earrings

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Rhinestone necklace bracelet earrings brooch

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Toucan Brooch

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Bead and Filigree Pin and Earrings in black

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Maharaja Fanned By Slave Turquoise Rhinestone Pin

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Enameled Mermaid Brooch ca 1960

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Siamese cat brooch, pearls on tail

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Gorgeous pin, brooch

Hattie Carnegie jewellery

Pineapple brooch

Exquisite brooch made of metal, transparent rhinestone. 1950's. 10 cm £ 100-150 CRIS

Flower branch brooch. Gold tone, rhinestone. 1950’s. 10 cm £ 100-150 CRIS

Fish brooch, 1950s. £ 150-170 CRIS. Pansy brooch. Cabochon in the center, metal, enamel. 1970s. w 5 cm. £ 40-50

Fish brooch, 1950s. £ 150-170 CRIS. Pansy brooch. Cabochon in the center, metal, enamel. 1970s. w 5 cm. £ 40-50

Goat's head brooch - lucite, glass imitating lapis lazuli, rock crystal. 1950's. 9.5 cm. £ 150-180 CRIS

Goat’s head brooch – lucite, glass imitating lapis lazuli, rock crystal. 1950’s. 9.5 cm. £ 150-180 CRIS

Mask brooch. Metal, gilding, artificial pearls, turquoise, coral, diamond. 1950's. 6.5 cm £ 200-250 CRIS

Mask brooch. Metal, gilding, artificial pearls, turquoise, coral, diamond. 1950’s. 6.5 cm £ 200-250 CRIS

Photo from the magazine Vogue 1931 Carnegie brooch in the form of a pear, rock crystal.

Photo from the magazine Vogue 1931 Carnegie brooch in the form of a pear, rock crystal.

White enamel, fake pearl brooches. 1950s 250-315 GB pounds

White enamel, fake pearl brooches. 1950s 250-315 GB pounds

Oriental style brooch, golden tone. 7x6 cm

Oriental style brooch, golden tone. 7×6 cm

New feeling...

New feeling… retro ad

Austria born, Henrietta Kanengeiser (March 15, 1889- 22 February 1956)

Austria born, Henrietta Kanengeiser (March 15, 1889- 22 February 1956)