Kaleidoscope effect

Jewellery kaleidoscope

French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe

Walrus playing ball, Brooch of French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe from the collection 'Jelly Belly', gilded silver, transparent lucite, rock crystal imitating ruby and sapphire. 1940. 6 cm. £ 400-500 CRIS

Walrus playing ball, Brooch of French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe from the collection ‘Jelly Belly’, gilded silver, transparent lucite, rock crystal imitating ruby and sapphire. 1940. 6 cm. £ 400-500 CRIS

French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe
A talented French jewelry designer, Alfred Philippe was the chief designer of the famous American company Trifari. In fact, it was he who ensured the success of the “Trifari”, having worked in the company as the chief designer from 1930 to 1968. Especially it is worth noting the use of Swarovski crystals, due to which Trifari received the name “King of Diamonds”, and the technique of invisible frames, which he usually used in precious ornaments. Besides, Alfred Philippe’s jewelry was sold through such prestigious companies as “Cartier” and “Van Cliff and Arpels.”
Noteworthy, created by Alfred Philippe designs are masterpieces of costume jewelery, now the prices for many of his ornaments can cost thousands of dollars.

French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe

Large brooch crown, gilded silver, sapphire and ruby cabochons, emerald crystals, ruby, emerald and transparent rock crystal. 1940’s. 4.5 cm £ 120-150 CRIS. French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe

Popular “Crown” brooches by Alfred Philippe of the 1940s, inlaid with large cabochons and decorated with rock crystal, have become a real masterpiece. Nevertheless, the work of the 1940s. of heavy gilded silver should not be confused with their copies of the 1980s, made of lighter metals, which cost less.

Made according to Alfred Philippe's design Necklace and earrings for the first lady of the USA Mami Eisenhower

Made according to Alfred Philippe’s design Necklace and earrings for the first lady of the USA Mami Eisenhower

Necklace and earrings of artificial pearls, emeralds and diamonds, made according to Alfred Philippe’s design for the first lady of the USA Mami Eisenhower. Among other decorations, it is especially worth mentioning the presidential powers for the inauguration of 1953 and 1957. 1950s. Diameter 38 cm, earrings 3 cm £ 400-500 CRIS

One of the most popular collections, produced under the direction of Alfred Philippe in the 1940s – is “Jelly Belly”, as well as brooches in the form of crowns. Also, decorations of patriotic subjects, including the American flag and brooches in the form of eagles, glorifying the American Armed Forces of the Second World War. Artificial pearls and “precious” stones of the 1950s experienced a second birth, as well as combinations of pearls and gold. However, because of their unfading popularity, decorations in floral motifs proved to be the most long living.

Among the most famous creations of Alfred Philippe:
– a collection of jewelry “Jelly Belly” – released during the Second World War – brooches in the form of animal figures, mostly birds and fish, with a tummy made of transparent acryle from DuPont.
– the famous brooch “Crown Trifari” – first released in 1941 and signed “Trifari Sterling” and “Pat. Pend”. The patent received on March 28, 1944 (patent number 137542). These brooches were reissued in 1947 in two different sizes in gold and silver. Brooch in the form of a crown continued to be one of the most famous and favorite ornaments of “Trifari”, reissued in 1951, 1955, 1960 and in the late 1960s. The last time small changes were made to the design of the crown – added pearls.

French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe

Encyclopedia of jewelry
Collector’s Guide by Judith Miller. Moscow. Publisher Astrel. 2004
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