Kaleidoscope effect

Jewellery kaleidoscope

French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe

Walrus playing ball, Brooch of French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe from the collection 'Jelly Belly', gilded silver, transparent lucite, rock crystal imitating ruby and sapphire. 1940. 6 cm. £ 400-500 CRIS

Walrus playing ball, Brooch of French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe from the collection ‘Jelly Belly’, gilded silver, transparent lucite, rock crystal imitating ruby and sapphire. 1940. 6 cm. £ 400-500 CRIS

French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe
A talented French jewelry designer, Alfred Philippe was the chief designer of the famous American company Trifari. In fact, it was he who ensured the success of the “Trifari”, having worked in the company as the chief designer from 1930 to 1968. Especially it is worth noting the use of Swarovski crystals, due to which Trifari received the name “King of Diamonds”, and the technique of invisible frames, which he usually used in precious ornaments. Besides, Alfred Philippe’s jewelry was sold through such prestigious companies as “Cartier” and “Van Cliff and Arpels.”
Noteworthy, created by Alfred Philippe designs are masterpieces of costume jewelery, now the prices for many of his ornaments can cost thousands of dollars.

French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe

Large brooch crown, gilded silver, sapphire and ruby cabochons, emerald crystals, ruby, emerald and transparent rock crystal. 1940’s. 4.5 cm £ 120-150 CRIS. French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe

Popular “Crown” brooches by Alfred Philippe of the 1940s, inlaid with large cabochons and decorated with rock crystal, have become a real masterpiece. Nevertheless, the work of the 1940s. of heavy gilded silver should not be confused with their copies of the 1980s, made of lighter metals, which cost less.

Made according to Alfred Philippe's design Necklace and earrings for the first lady of the USA Mami Eisenhower

Made according to Alfred Philippe’s design Necklace and earrings for the first lady of the USA Mami Eisenhower

Necklace and earrings of artificial pearls, emeralds and diamonds, made according to Alfred Philippe’s design for the first lady of the USA Mami Eisenhower. Among other decorations, it is especially worth mentioning the presidential powers for the inauguration of 1953 and 1957. 1950s. Diameter 38 cm, earrings 3 cm £ 400-500 CRIS

Yellow flower brooch. Colored enamels, rhinestone. 1930's. 10 cm £ 300-435 ROX

Yellow flower brooch. Colored enamels, rhinestone. 1930’s. 10 cm £ 300-435 ROX

One of the most popular collections, produced under the direction of Alfred Philippe in the 1940s – is “Jelly Belly”, as well as brooches in the form of crowns. Also, decorations of patriotic subjects, including the American flag and brooches in the form of eagles, glorifying the American Armed Forces of the Second World War. Artificial pearls and “precious” stones of the 1950s experienced a second birth, as well as combinations of pearls and gold. However, because of their unfading popularity, decorations in floral motifs proved to be the most long living.

White flower, very rare brooch. Metal, gilding, white enamel, transparent and amber rock crystal. 1930's. 7.5 cm. £ 300-435 ROX

White flower, very rare brooch. Metal, gilding, white enamel, transparent and amber rock crystal. 1930’s. 7.5 cm. £ 300-435 ROX

Crown brooch. Gilded silver, emerald, ruby and transparent rock crystal, artificial pearls. 1940's. 5.5 cm £ 180-200 TR

Crown brooch. Gilded silver, emerald, ruby and transparent rock crystal, artificial pearls. 1940’s. 5.5 cm £ 180-200 TR

Among the most famous creations of Alfred Philippe:
– a collection of jewelry “Jelly Belly” – released during the Second World War – brooches in the form of animal figures, mostly birds and fish, with a tummy made of transparent acryle from DuPont.
– the famous brooch “Crown Trifari” – first released in 1941 and signed “Trifari Sterling” and “Pat. Pend”. The patent received on March 28, 1944 (patent number 137542). These brooches were reissued in 1947 in two different sizes in gold and silver. Brooch in the form of a crown continued to be one of the most famous and favorite ornaments of “Trifari”, reissued in 1951, 1955, 1960 and in the late 1960s. The last time small changes were made to the design of the crown – added pearls.

French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe

US Flag brooch. Metal, gilding, blue and red enamel, transparent rock crystal. 1940's. 6 cm. £ 135-200

US Flag brooch. Metal, gilding, blue and red enamel, transparent rock crystal. 1940’s. 6 cm. £ 135-200

The Garden of Eden

The Garden of Eden

The blue brooch. Gold-plated silver, blue enamel, transparent rock crystal. 1940's. 3.75 cm £ 100-120

The blue brooch. Gold-plated silver, blue enamel, transparent rock crystal. 1940’s. 3.75 cm £ 100-120

The balloon brooch, an alloy of gold color. 1950's. length 5.75 cm. £ 30-40

The balloon brooch, an alloy of gold color. 1950’s. length 5.75 cm. £ 30-40

Swan lake. A rare brooch, blue and dark ruby ​​enamel, transparent rock crystal, silver. 1940's. 7 cm. £ 470-670

Swan lake. A rare brooch, blue and dark ruby ​​enamel, transparent rock crystal, silver. 1940’s. 7 cm. £ 470-670

Spider brooch from the collection of Jelly Belly £ 600-650 TR

Spider brooch from the collection of Jelly Belly £ 600-650 TR

Snake Brooch and earrings. Metal, gilding, artificial rubies and emeralds. Brooch 6.25 cm, earrings 2.5 cm. £ 250 RG

Snake Brooch and earrings. Metal, gilding, artificial rubies and emeralds. Brooch 6.25 cm, earrings 2.5 cm. £ 250 RG

Shell brooch. Metal, gilding, colored enamels, artificial pearls, 1950s. 6.5 £ 120-140 CRIS

Shell brooch. Metal, gilding, colored enamels, artificial pearls, 1950s. 6.5 £ 120-140 CRIS

Shell brooch. Colored enamels, artificial pearls, metal, gilding. 1950's. length 8cm

Shell brooch. Colored enamels, artificial pearls, metal, gilding. 1950’s. length 8cm

Seahorse brooch. Metal, gilding, turquoise and ruby ​​cabochons. 1950's. 11.5 cm £ 30-40 CRIS

Seahorse brooch. Metal, gilding, turquoise and ruby ​​cabochons. 1950’s. 11.5 cm £ 30-40 CRIS

Ring-watch in the form of a dragon's head. Transparent rock crystal, green cabochons. 1960's. 6.5 cm. £ 115-165ROX

Ring-watch in the form of a dragon’s head. Transparent rock crystal, green cabochons. 1960’s. 6.5 cm. £ 115-165ROX

Rhodium plated metal brooch, transparent and color citrina rhinestone. 1930's. 9 cm £ 400-500 CRIS

Rhodium plated metal brooch, transparent and color citrina rhinestone. 1930’s. 9 cm £ 400-500 CRIS

Red carnation. Brooch and earrings Alfred Philippe. 1940's. £ 370-570 ROX

Red carnation. Brooch and earrings Alfred Philippe. 1940’s. £ 370-570 ROX

Poster - The Garden of Eden

Poster – The Garden of Eden

Poodle brooch, metal, gilding, lucite, red rock crystal. 1944. 5 cm £ 500-600 CRIS

Poodle brooch, metal, gilding, lucite, red rock crystal. 1944. 5 cm £ 500-600 CRIS

Pea in a pod brooch

Pea in a pod brooch

Patriotic brooch American eagle. Gold plated silver, colored enamels. 1940's. 5 cm. £ 120-135 TR

Patriotic brooch American eagle. Gold plated silver, colored enamels. 1940’s. 5 cm. £ 120-135 TR

Necklace and earrings, Alfred Philippe. Gold-plated silver, coral-colored glass, rock crystal. 1940's. £ 150-200 CRIS

Necklace and earrings, Alfred Philippe. Gold-plated silver, coral-colored glass, rock crystal. 1940’s. £ 150-200 CRIS

Moth, Butterfly brooch. Covered with rhodium metal, emerald cabochons, enamel, transparent rock crystal. 1930's. 4 cm. £ 100-170 ROX

Moth, Butterfly brooch. Covered with rhodium metal, emerald cabochons, enamel, transparent rock crystal. 1930’s. 4 cm. £ 100-170 ROX

Insect rare brooch. Metal, gilding, blue glass, red and emerald cabochons. 1930's. 7.5 cm. £ 465-665 ROX

Insect rare brooch. Metal, gilding, blue glass, red and emerald cabochons. 1930’s. 7.5 cm. £ 465-665 ROX

Leaf Brooch. Gold plated silver, green and transparent rock crystal. 1940's. Brooch 9 cm, Earrings 2,5 cm £ 200-270 ROX

Leaf Brooch. Gold plated silver, green and transparent rock crystal. 1940’s. Brooch 9 cm, Earrings 2,5 cm £ 200-270 ROX

Maltese cross brooch. Blue cabochons, metal, gilding, blue enamel, rock crystal. 1950's. 6.25 cm £ 70-80 CRIS

Maltese cross brooch. Blue cabochons, metal, gilding, blue enamel, rock crystal. 1950’s. 6.25 cm £ 70-80 CRIS

Maple leaf brooch. Cabochons of coral color. Mid-1950's. £ 75-85 CRIS

Maple leaf brooch. Cabochons of coral color. Mid-1950’s. £ 75-85 CRIS

Hyacinth brooch Cold enamel and transparent rhinestone. 1940's. Ancient and rare decoration £ 450-500 CRIS

Hyacinth brooch Cold enamel and transparent rhinestone. 1940’s. Ancient and rare decoration £ 450-500 CRIS

Heart brooch. Blue glass, gilded silver, rhodium-plated metal. 1940's. 7 cm £ 135-200 ROX

Heart brooch. Blue glass, gilded silver, rhodium-plated metal. 1940’s. 7 cm £ 135-200 ROX

Frog fur clip

Frog fur clip

A monkey with a pearl. Enameled brooch 1942

A monkey with a pearl. Enameled brooch 1942

Grape Brooch. Dark purple glass, gold-plated metal. 1930's. £ 135 ROX

Grape Brooch. Dark purple glass, gold-plated metal. 1930’s. £ 135 ROX

Gooseberries Brooch. Silver and gilded silver, transparent rock crystal. 1930's. 7.5 cm. £ 135-200 ROX

Gooseberries Brooch. Silver and gilded silver, transparent rock crystal. 1930’s. 7.5 cm. £ 135-200 ROX

Gold-plated silver brooch, ruby ​​and emerald crystals, transparent to the 1930's. d 8.5 cm

Gold-plated silver brooch, ruby ​​and emerald crystals, transparent to the 1930’s. d 8.5 cm

Gold plated silver Fly brooch, gray lucite, rock crystal. 1940's. 7.5 cm £ 600-735 TR

Gold plated silver Fly brooch, gray lucite, rock crystal. 1940’s. 7.5 cm £ 600-735 TR

Fly brooch. Metal, gilding, lucite, blue and aquamarine cabochons, ruby ​​and transparent rock crystal. 1940's. 4.5 cm ROX £ 115-165

Fly brooch. Metal, gilding, lucite, blue and aquamarine cabochons, ruby ​​and transparent rock crystal. 1940’s. 4.5 cm ROX £ 115-165

Flower brooch and earrings Alfred Philippe. Rhodium plated metal. Pink crystals, rock crystal. 1940's. £ 400-670 ROX

Flower brooch and earrings Alfred Philippe. Rhodium plated metal. Pink crystals, rock crystal. 1940’s. £ 400-670 ROX

Floral brooch. Gilded silver, ruby ​​and transparent rock crystal. 1930's. 8cm. £ 235-255 TR

Floral brooch. Gilded silver, ruby ​​and transparent rock crystal. 1930’s. 8cm. £ 235-255 TR

Crows in the tree brooch. Silver-coated metal, enamel, rock crystal. 1930's. d 5.75 cm. £ 200-335 ROX

Crows in the tree brooch. Silver-coated metal, enamel, rock crystal. 1930’s. d 5.75 cm. £ 200-335 ROX

Duck in an egg Brooch from the collection of Jelly Belly. metal, gilding, rhinestone, coral cabochons. 1930's. 5 cm £ 735-865 TR

Duck in an egg Brooch from the collection of Jelly Belly. metal, gilding, rhinestone, coral cabochons. 1930’s. 5 cm £ 735-865 TR

Extremely rare clip for fur. Gold plated silver, black enamel, blue cabochons, rock crystal. 1940's. 7.5 cm. £ 900-1000 CRIS

Extremely rare clip for fur. Gold plated silver, black enamel, blue cabochons, rock crystal. 1940’s. 7.5 cm. £ 900-1000 CRIS

Emerald glass, gilded silver, blue glass, transparent rock crystal. 1940's. Brooch 6,25 cm, Earrings 3 cm £ 180-200 CRIS

Emerald glass, gilded silver, blue glass, transparent rock crystal. 1940’s. Brooch 6,25 cm, Earrings 3 cm £ 180-200 CRIS

Fleur-de-lyz brooch-crown, medieval motive, stylized vegetative forms. Silver, transparent rock crystal. 1940's. 6.25 cm £ 185-200 TR

Fleur-de-lyz brooch-crown, medieval motive, stylized vegetative forms. Silver, transparent rock crystal. 1940’s. 6.25 cm £ 185-200 TR

Crab brooch from the collection of Jelly Belly. Gold plated silver, gray lucite, rock crystal. 1940's. 7.5 cm. £ 600-670 TR

Crab brooch from the collection of Jelly Belly. Gold plated silver, gray lucite, rock crystal. 1940’s. 7.5 cm. £ 600-670 TR

Cockerel brooch. Metal, gilding, lucite, red rock crystal. 1940's. 6.5 cm £ 400-500 CRIS

Cockerel brooch. Metal, gilding, lucite, red rock crystal. 1940’s. 6.5 cm £ 400-500 CRIS

Clip for fur, metal of two colors - yellow and pink gold

Clip for fur, metal of two colors – yellow and pink gold

Charming flower brooch. Rhodium-plated metal, transparent rhinestone. 1930's. 8cm £ 185-250 ROX

Charming flower brooch. Rhodium-plated metal, transparent rhinestone. 1930’s. 8cm £ 185-250 ROX

Butterfly brooch, Alfred Philippe. Silver, rock crystal, blue and red cabochons. 1940's. 6.25 cm. £ 140-160 CRIS

Butterfly brooch, Alfred Philippe. Silver, rock crystal, blue and red cabochons. 1940’s. 6.25 cm. £ 140-160 CRIS

Brooch and earrings. Emerald, ruby ​​and sapphire crystal. 1930's. Brooch 6.5 cm, Earrings 2.5 cm ROX £ 185-250

Brooch and earrings. Emerald, ruby ​​and sapphire crystal. 1930’s. Brooch 6.5 cm, Earrings 2.5 cm ROX £ 185-250

Bow brooch, gilded silver, ruby round rhinestone. 1940's. 9cm. £ 400-600

Bow brooch, gilded silver, ruby round rhinestone. 1940’s. 9cm. £ 400-600

Bird of Paradise, a brooch by Alfred Philippe. Gold plated silver, red, blue and transparent rhinestone. Length 9 cm £ 400 RG

Bird of Paradise, a brooch by Alfred Philippe. Gold plated silver, red, blue and transparent rhinestone. Length 9 cm £ 400 RG

Berry earrings and a brooch £ 55-85 ROX

Berry earrings and a brooch £ 55-85 ROX

Beautiful set of necklace and earrings, Indian motifs. Gold alloy, rock crystal. 1950's. £ 185-250 ROX

Beautiful set of necklace and earrings, Indian motifs. Gold alloy, rock crystal. 1950’s. £ 185-250 ROX

A rare brooch in the form of an elephant's head. Metal, gilding, rhinestone, artificial pearls, ruby ​​crystals. 1930. 5 cm £ 200-250 ROX

A rare brooch in the form of an elephant’s head. Metal, gilding, rhinestone, artificial pearls, ruby ​​crystals. 1930. 5 cm £ 200-250 ROX

A rare brooch in the form of a Chinese pagoda. Colored enamels, crystal, metal, gilding. 1930's. 7 cm. £ 400-535

A rare brooch in the form of a Chinese pagoda. Colored enamels, crystal, metal, gilding. 1930’s. 7 cm. £ 400-535

Encyclopedia of jewelry
Collector’s Guide by Judith Miller. Moscow. Publisher Astrel. 2004
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