Eye miniature jewellery

03.02.2015

40 2 minutes read

Eye miniature jewellery
Such commemorative miniatures were in vogue and became very popular in the 1790 – 1820’s in England, then in France, and Russia. The eyes of lovers were portrayed in jewelry: brooches, rings, bracelets and pendants, on the boxes, and wallets. Most often, these miniatures were made on on ivory. Often with a miniature was kept a lock of hair of beloved one.
The history of the emergence of these miniatures is as follows:
Prince of Wales (later King George IV) was in love with the widow Maria Fitzherbert (she was a Catholic and six years older than him) and made her a proposal. According to belief, sometime around 1785, Mrs. Fitzherbert commissioned Richard A. Cosway, a London miniaturist, to paint one of her eyes. The portrait painted on ivory, was placed behind glass and set within a locket. December 15, 1785 was their secret wedding.

Maria Fitzherbert, (1756-1837), circa 1788

The artist miniaturist, Richard Cosway painted only the eyes of lovers. They exchanged them and thereby maintained anonymity and decency. But the marriage was invalid, since his father George III did not approve it. As they say – a miniature “eyes of Mary”, George IV wore hidden under the lapel.

Eye miniature jewellery

Also, these miniatures were made as a memory of a deceased spouse or child. Preserved brooches, pins, medallions, casket, bracelets, which show only eyes. Often, side by side with them was a curl or twist of hair of a loved one, a child’s or relative’s, not only a lover. On bracelets and medallions sometimes occured multiple thumbnails, then memorial decorations were very much in fashion. Many of the “eyes” were paired with portraits or entirely thumbnails. Such pairs have survived in museums.

Today, many of these little things look exotic, and even frightening. As there was no photography, a miniature portrait was very expensive. The most important thing – they maintained anonymity, exchanged by lovers who wished to keep their relationship a discreet secret.

Noteworthy, not only lovers, but family members were portrayed. The bracelet design, for instance, could include four eyes, each belonging to a member of one family and bearing the initials of each individual. Also, mourning pieces contained the eye of a departed loved one, sometimes set in a frame of pearls which symbolized tears.