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Ed Wiener modernist silver jewelry

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Ed Wiener modernist silver jewelry

Inspired by American modern dancer and choreographer Martha Graham (May 11, 1894 – April 1, 1991) sterling silver brooch. 1950s. Ed Wiener modernist silver jewelry

Ed Wiener modernist silver jewelry
A self-taught jeweler, Ed Wiener (1918-1991) became one of the most famous modernist jewelry artists of his day, with a great understanding of form, line and color. According to Wiener himself, his designs from the late 1940s and 50s could be compared to jazz improvisation.
Born in New York in 1918, he worked in his father’s butcher’s shop before the war, then in a radio assembly shop, where he discovered his aptitude for manual labor.
The designer married like-minded woman Doris in 1944. He and his wife studied crafts at Columbia University for three months. Noteworthy, it was there that they made pins with the names and initials of their friends from twisted wire. The pins were so good that Ed and Doris immediately sold them.
In July 1945 they went to Provincetown, where in the summer of 1946 they opened a small shop and sold Mexican jewelry, bags, belts, as well as their own creations. The designer learned a lot from the artists who frequented his shop. They made him feel like he was doing something important.
Wiener admired the work of Calder and Georg Jensen, which disregarded the traditions of jewelry. He also admired the sculptural forms of Picasso, which he easily embodied into silver jewelry.

Abstract design round agate silver brooch

Abstract design round agate silver brooch

In the summer of 1947, the Wieners opened their own store in Provincetown, where they also sold paintings and sculptures by other artists until 1958. In the winter of 1947, Wiener opened his first retail store, Arts and Ends, where he operated until 1953.

Ed Wiener modernist silver jewelry

Abstract wave design moonstone silver brooch

Abstract wave design moonstone silver brooch

From 1953 to 1966, Arts and Ends occupied a store at 46 West 53rd Street, next to the Museum of Modern Art and the Museum of Modern Crafts. Wiener’s next move was Madison Avenue at 69th Street in 1966. It was during this period that Wiener began creating India-inspired jewelry, mainly rings, favoring texture, gold and stones. From 1971–81, Wiener ran a store at 57th Street and Madison Avenue.

Wiener created jewelry until his death in 1991.

Maker's mark 1

Maker’s mark

Ed Wiener modernist silver jewelry

'Boomerang' brooch, c. 1955. Sterling silver, blackened, cultured pearl

‘Boomerang’ brooch, c. 1955. Sterling silver, blackened, cultured pearl

Cultured pearl 14 K gold abstract design brooch

Cultured pearl 14 K gold abstract design brooch

Ebony wood sterling silver cufflinks

Ebony wood sterling silver cufflinks

Labyrinth design sterling silver brooch and earrings

Labyrinth design sterling silver brooch and earrings

Modernist design brooch. Sterling silver, cornelian. 1950s

Modernist design brooch. Sterling silver, cornelian. 1950s

Operculum sterling silver pendant

Operculum sterling silver pendant

Oxidized sterling silver, gold beads, copper brooch

Oxidized sterling silver, gold beads, copper brooch

Scales triangular shape sterling silver pendant

Scales triangular shape sterling silver pendant

Silver cuff. 1950s

Silver cuff. 1950s

Sterling silver abstract design earrings

Sterling silver abstract design earrings

White gold hinged bangle

White gold hinged bangle

Maker's mark

Maker’s mark