Pulse collection geometric design 18 K rose gold and diamond earrings. French jeweler Jean Dinh Van

French jeweler Jean Dinh Van

Born 11 September 1927 in Paris, Jean Dinh Van is a renowned French jeweler of Vietnamese origin. He studied silversmithing at school and joined Cartier in the early 1960s. There he continued to study jewelry making, first as an apprentice and then as a craftsman, working for the company for 10 years. While working at Cartier, he met Pierre Cardin and made pieces for him that are still a symbol of his work, such as the Two Pearls ring.

Noteworthy, Dinh Van first used his name in jewelry marking in 1965, although he did not open his workshop until 1972. In the late 1960s, he immersed himself in the world of the Bauhaus masters and created exquisite jewels of great restraint. He also made friends with young designers, in particular with Claude Pelletier, who wanted to take jewelry out of its traditional “straight-line”. His products became popular both in France and Europe, as well as in the USA.
In order to sell his products in the US, he applied for an eponymous jewelry trademark on October 12, 1976. According to the United States federal trademark registration, the Jean Dinh Van trademark ceased to exist in 1985.
All of his minimalist designs, even those created 50 years ago, are very modern and highly collectible.
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Grape vine filigree bronze tone art glass brooch. 1980s. Jan Michaels vintage costume jewelry

Jan Michaels vintage costume jewelry
The history of Jan Michaels jewelry brand began more than forty years ago in Pacifica San Francisco, California. Incorporated in 1980, Jan Michaels Inc ceased to exist in 2020. For over 40 years she has created unique handcrafted designs which are recognized wearable art. Noteworthy, she designed each piece herself and her team of artisans meticulously assembled each piece by hand. Traditionally, they used antique brass, metal alloys and semi-precious stones and created a layered effect.
Inspired by travels, visits to museums and study of history, most of her collections pay tribute to the traditions of ancient India, Persia, China, Egypt and Saudi Arabia. In addition, during her travels, she collected materials for her jewelry. Among the most popular collections, which are miniature works of art, are Future Tribe, Sputnik, Romance, and others.
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Liberty Bell patriotic brooch pin. Gold tone, rhinestones, art glass. 1960s. Signed Cinerama vintage costume jewelry

Signed Cinerama vintage costume jewelry
History of Cinerama Jewelry Inc began in 1966 in Cranston, Rhode Island. It was a family business founded by Ralph Rafaelian (January 3, 1935 – February 18, 2012). A hereditary Armenian jeweler, Ralph was the grandson of goldsmith Melkon Rafaelian, who came to America in the early 20th century.
Ralph (Raffi) opened a jewelry factory where he designed patriotic, as well as classic floral motifs jewelry using rhinestones and crystals.
Following the family tradition, Raffi taught his daughters and they helped him in the factory from childhood.
One of them, Carolyn Rafaelian, joined the company in 1994 and became a well-known jeweler, a businesswoman who founded her own company, Alex and Ani. In addition to co-owning Cinerama, she founded dozens of jewelry brands and even became the richest female jeweler.
After her father’s death, Carolyn Rafaelian took over the management of Cinerama.
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Rhinestone Rhodium Plated Floral Bouquet Brooch. 1950s. Dorsons vintage costume jewelry (1935 – 1960)

Dorsons vintage costume jewelry (1935 – 1960)
The history of New York jewelry trademark “Dorsons” spans a period of about three decades. Incorporated in 1935, D. Ornstein & Sons, Inc. (later renamed to Dorsons Jewelry Co., Inc.) ceased to exist in 1960. Initially, it was a family business of David Ornstein (1889 – 1954) and his sons, Bernard (1914 – 1992) and Irving (1920 – 2002). Headquartered in Manhattan, the company produced gold filled sterling silver bracelets, brooches, necklaces and watch cases.
Noteworthy, before founding his own company, Romanian-born David Ornstein had rich experience in jewelry business. Since 1919, he and his two partners owned Noveline Mfg. Co. (previously known as “Distinctive Jewelry Co., Inc.”) in New York City.
Innovative designer, during 1922-1945 David Ornstein had filed for several patents for rings, watch cases, bracelets, brooches, and even a brooch with a fountain pen!
Advertised in New York Times, Vogue, and Life, Dorsons Jewelry was very successful and the company had subsidiaries throughout the US and in Canada. Also, in addition to Dorsons, the company owned Jubilee and Dorel trademarks (the last one in partnership with Heller-Deltah Co.)
After the death of David Ornstein in 1954, the company went through name changes, mergers, and eventually ceased to exist.
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Donkey 12 K gold filled brooch. 1960s. James H Hall vintage costume jewelry

James H Hall vintage costume jewelry
The history of Providence Rhode Island based jewelry company James H. Hall Co Inc began in 1962. The company handcrafted animal design jewelry for about two decades and ceased to exist before the 1980s. Noteworthy, the alternative name for the company and its brand name was “Yankee Silversmiths”. Accordingly, the marking may include both names “James H. Hall” and “Yankee Silversmiths”, or “YS”, and sometimes the purity of gold or silver. In addition to gold and silver, the craftsmen used bright color enamels.
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Gingerbread man gold tone brooch. 5.5 cm. 1990s. Signed Kookai vintage costume jewelry

Signed Kookai vintage costume jewelry
The history of French jewelry brand Kookaï began in 1993, although the company began its activity in 1983. Founded by three friends – Jean-Lou Tepper, Jacques Nataf and Philippe de Hesdin, the company sold fashion clothes and accessories at accessible prices. Headquartered in Epinay-sur-Seine, France, the company opened four stores in Paris. The same year, the company became a subsidiary of Vivarte company (1996). Finally, Vivarte sold Kookai to Magi in 2016.
Noteworthy, Kokai jewelry trademark ceased to exist in 2004.
Handcrafted by French artisans, Kookaï pieces are easily recognizable. Very often, the designs include hippie motifs, minimalist and couture style.
Traditionally, the company’s craftsmen used metal alloys of gold or silver tone, as well as enamel and rhinestones. Also, many decorations include the company logo as well as the Kokai marking.
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Lavender color flower brooch with green leaves. 4.5 cm. 1960s. Dorothy Ann vintage porcelain jewelry

Dorothy Ann vintage porcelain jewelry

The history of English porcelain jewelry manufacture began in the middle of the last century. Based in Stoke-on-Trent, Dorothy Ann China Co was one of dozens of companies that made bone china brooches and clips in the 1950s and 60s. Among them – Cara China, Aynsley Fine Bone, Coalport China Co, Crown Staffordshire China Co, Denton China Co, Bone China Crafts Co, etc. Before that, many English porcelain manufacturers had already had rich experience in making porcelain tableware.
They rightly decided that the post-war English market needed something new, in accordance with the tastes of English ladies. Noteworthy, they approached the production of jewelry as seriously as the production of tableware.
The main material for the production of jewelry was the world-famous snow-white porcelain, called “bone china”.
Thanks to fine and accurate work and high-temperature firing, porcelain jewelry ornaments are guaranteed a long life. Sculpted and painted by hand, with meticulous attention to detail, each brooch or clip is unique wearable art. Today, these flower design ornaments painted in soft pastel colors are highly collectible.
Traditionally, the marking includes “Dorothy Ann China” and “Made In England”.

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