Logo brooch, gold tone, rhinestones. 1980s. Yves Saint Laurent YSL costume jewellery

Yves Saint Laurent YSL costume jewellery
Protégé of Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent founded his fashion house in 1961 and the following year released the first collection of costume jewelry. The style of his jewelry varies from elegant classic to exotic refined. Bijouterie of the 1970s – theatrical and bright, demonstrates the same purity of shapes and lines as clothing.

According to Laurent, people underestimate the importance of accessories – this is the thing that changes attire. “I like simple dresses and crazy accessories”, once he said. For Saint-Laurent, the perfection of the outfit depended not so much on clothes as on the correct accessory. For his customers couturier hired famous artists, jewelry designers, and haberdashery craftsmen, who could embody his ideas in perfect shape.
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Funny cat, large brooch. Gold plated silver, artificial turquoise, rock crystal. 1940. 10 cm. £ 200-265. Fred A. Block inc vintage costume jewellery

Fred A. Block inc vintage costume jewellery
Bright contrasting colors like gold and turquoise in this brooch are characteristic of many works by Fred A. Block Inc.
Based in Chicago, American company “Fred A. Block Inc.” produced bijouterie in the 1930s-1950s as accessories advertising their clothing lines. Produced in small quantities, most of their jewelry decorations are very rare, expensive and popular among collectors. In particular, bizarre figures – brooches of high-quality gilded silver with bright enamel and large crystals of rock crystal or beads. For example, this funny cat 10 cm brooch, made in 1940 from gold plated silver, artificial turquoise and rock crystal.
Chicago based clothing manufacturer “Fred A. Block” started their business in the 1920s, and they produced costume jewelry from the 1930s to the 1950s.
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Walrus playing ball, Brooch of French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe from the collection ‘Jelly Belly’, gilded silver, transparent lucite, rock crystal imitating ruby and sapphire. 1940. 6 cm. £ 400-500 CRIS

French jewellery designer Alfred Philippe
A talented French jewelry designer, Alfred Philippe was the chief designer of the iconic American jewelry company Trifari. In fact, it was he who brought success to “Trifari”, having worked in the company as the chief designer from 1930 to 1968. Philippe’s jewelry was sold through such prestigious companies as “Cartier” and “Van Cliff and Arpels.”
Noteworthy, created by Philippe designs are masterpieces of costume jewelry, now the prices for many of his ornaments can cost thousands of dollars.
One of the most popular collections, produced under the direction of Alfred Philippe in the 1940s – was “Jelly Belly“, released during the Second World War. Their design included animal figures, mostly birds and fish.
Also, crown brooches released in 1941 and signed “Trifari Sterling” and “Pat. Pend”. Brooch in the form of a crown continued to be one of the most famous and favorite ornaments of “Trifari”, reissued in 1951, 1955, 1960 and in the late 1960s. Among other notable designs are patriotic pieces with the American flag, eagles, glorifying the American Armed Forces of the Second World War.

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Egyptian style brooch. Circa 1865-1895. Made of Gold, rubies, diamonds, pearls and enamel. Work by Italian jewellery designer Carlo Giuliano (1831-1895)

Glorious Italian jewellery designer Carlo Giuliano
A native of Naples, Carlo Giuliano (1831-1895) was an antiques dealer, and the personal jeweler of Queen Victoria.
He began his career in Castellani’s workshop in Rome, where he made decorations in archaeological style.
In 1860 he arrived in London and opened a workshop on Fritth Street, where he produced jewelry for such companies as Hunt and Roskell, Robert Phillips and K.F. Hancock. Sometimes on such ornaments and branded cases there are two marks – “C.G.”, and a mark of the seller.
Noteworthy, in 1874 Giuliano opened his own shop on Piccadilly Street, 115. Giuliano became known for neo-Renaissance style, which he adapted to modern fashion with an invariably excellent taste. Like Castellani, Giuliano signed his products. Early works of Carlo Giuliano in the archaeological style have monogram “C.G.”, similar to the intertwined “C” of Castellani. Since 1863 almost all Giuliano’s products have marking “C.G.” in the oval.
After the death of their father in 1896, Carlo-Joseph and Arthur developed a new signature – the monogram “C. & A.G.” in the oval. His sons Carlo-Joseph and Arthur continued the family business. They worked until 1912, and opened the workshop in Knightsbridge. However, due to the outbreak of the First World War they closed the shop.
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Rose flower brooch and earrings. Pate de Verre glass leaves, transparent rhinestone, yellow gold tone metal. 2000. Vintage L’Atelier de Verre costume jewelry

Vintage L’Atelier de Verre costume jewelry
In the early 1990’s, four employees of the company Maison Gripoix founded a small jewelry studio “L’Atelier de Verre”. Until 2003, the studio collaborated with “Chanel” fashion house, producing high-quality jewelry in the spirit of Maison Gripoix. Under the “L’Atelier de Verre” brand, the studio produced mainly floral compositions made of artificial pearls, rock crystal, and gilded metal.
The quality and beauty of their glass bijoux allowed the jewelers to sell their products through well-known boutiques and elite department stores. In particular, Neiman Markus and Saks Fifth Avenue in the USA, the Galleries Lafayette in France and Harrods in England.
The history of glass beads in France embraces the history of techniques, cultural exchanges, fashion and art. Thanks to the talent of jewelers, France has repeatedly held an important place in the lampwork beads jewelry art in Europe and in the world.
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The flamingo brooch commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for the Duchess in 1940 as a birthday gift. Cartier jewelry house

Cartier jewelry house

Born Louis-Francois Cartier in 1819 in France, his family was not wealthy. His father was engaged in the production of horns for gunpowder, and the boy’s mother was sure that he would follow in the footsteps of his father. However, even at an early age, Louis showed interest in art. Fortunately, parents decided to develop his talent, and Louis Francois went to Paris to study at Adolphe Picard’s workshop. Noteworthy, in 1847 Louis-François Cartier bought Picard’s workshop. Thus, the history of Cartier jewelry began.
Six years later Cartier opened a second workshop in Paris. Two weeks after the opening of the second Cartier salon, the best friend of Princess Matilda, the niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, entered the shop. Naturally, then Cartier did not even suspect this, and the countess, meanwhile, bought three brooches.
Having examined the brooches more closely, the Countess fell in love with the work of the master. Next, she showed her unsurpassed purchases to Princess Mathilde and Empress Eugenia, the wife of Napoleon the Third. Of course, all women who were true connoisseurs of jewelry art, appreciated the amazing decorations. For three years the royal people have purchased from Louis Cartier more than 150 ornaments. Undoubtedly, Cartier gained fame from all high-ranking individuals, and Princess Mathilde became patroness of Cartier. Of course, this patronage was incredibly useful for Cartier.
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Opal, amethyst gold pendant. Early 20th century Suffragette costume jewelry

Early 20th century Suffragette costume jewelry
The movement for the granting of electoral rights to women, during the reign of Queen Victoria was a kind of equivalent to today’s political status. Ladies, participating in this movement preferred special ornaments, known as Suffragette jewelry.
Most popular were brooches and pendants decorated with green, white, red and violet gemstones. Noteworthy, the stone color had a special meaning. According to the first letters of their names, the suffragettes ciphered their appeal: “Give women the right to vote.” Thus, costume jewelry became a kind of symbol of women’s emancipation during the reign of Queen Victoria.
In addition, the decorations worn by the participants of the movement, included the royal symbols, where each gemstone had a meaning. For example, the Amethysts represented Royalty, the Emeralds represented Nature and the Pearls represented Purity. Violet was the favorite color of Queen Alexandra, and the Prince of Wales preferred stone of white and green color, peridot.
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