Kaleidoscope effect

Jewellery kaleidoscope

Category Archive: Vintage

Juliana Vintage jewellery

Juliana Vintage jewellery

Beautiful set of brooch and earrings. Juliana Vintage jewellery

Juliana Vintage jewellery
Owned by the American company Delizza and Elster Inc. (abbreviated as D&E), Juliana appeared in 1953 and lasted until 1990.
Founded in the 1940s by Robert De Lizza and Harold Elster, Delizza and Elster Inc. became one of the largest jewelry manufacturers in the United States. Already in the first years of its operation, the company signed contracts with hundreds of firms in the US and abroad.
The list of companies for which D&E has created jewelry is impressive. These are well-known jewelry brands such as Weiss, Alice Caviness, Ballet, Celebrity, Hobe, Hattie Carnegie, Kenneth J. Lane, Kramer, and Karu.
Noteworthy, the company did not label the jewelry created for these brands. In 1953, the company launched the Juliana jewelry line, which has become a collector’s item today.
Originally, the craftsmen did not label this line of jewelry, as large stores and companies preferred to see the Juliana name only on attached tags.
Apparently, as a result of numerous negotiations, since 1967, large department stores began to sell jewelry marked “Juliana”.
Although Mr. De Lizza wanted his jewelry to be labeled “De Lizza and Elster”, the name “Juliana” became more popular. What’s more, these pieces are among the most sought-after on the market, and can fetch up to several thousand dollars at auctions.

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Russian Art Nouveau jewellery

Russian Art Nouveau jewellery. Belle Epoque handcrafted Diamond Brooch Pin. Russian Art Nouveau jewellery

Belle Epoque handcrafted Diamond Brooch Pin. Moscow, 1908 – 1917. Marked with initials ‘AM’ for Moscow jeweler Alexander Moskvin. Russian Art Nouveau jewellery

Russian Art Nouveau jewellery
Noteworthy, Art Nouveau Jewellery has “geographical” features. French Art Nouveau jewellery, for example, by Lucien Gaillard, Georges Fouquet, is masterly asymmetrical, while “the German mind” (Wilhelm von Cranach Lucas) tends to symmetry. Palette also varies, and in Russia it is different than in Europe.
Russian Revival Style of the 1910s, called Neo-Russian Modern was influenced by medieval Russo-Byzantine tradition. Produced in Moscow in 1908-1917, the period before and during the World War I, Russian medieval designs and shapes were mixed with typical Belle Epoque forms and elements. The result was a unique Russian jewelry style not seen anywhere else.
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French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger

The brooch 'Bird on a Rock'. Tiffany Diamond. image - Wikipedia. French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger

‘Bird on a Rock’ brooch. 1965. French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger

French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger
Born in Mulhouse, France, Jean Schlumberger was the son of Paul Albert Edward Schlumberger (1877 – 1952) and Elizabeth Schoen (1884 – 1942), who worked in the textile industry. Already in his youth, Jean showed talent for drawing, but his parents tried to discourage him from the artistic activity, forbidding him to undertake formal training.
In 1930, his father sent his son to Berlin to be engaged in banking activities. However, Jean finds a complete lack of interest and talent for numbers, and soon moved to Paris. In Paris, Schlumberger began to create jewelry with porcelain flowers and precious stones. He gave these products to his friends, among whom was Marina, Duchess of Kent. Later, she became the permanent representative of his works.
In 1930, thanks to Marina, Elsa Schiaparelli noticed the talent of the young designer. She hired him to create jewelry and buttons for her surreal collections. Also, he began to collaborate with Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dali and Louis Aragon. From these meetings future famous jeweler began his professional career.
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Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope

Beetle crawling the flower Entomological Brooch. Gold, diamonds, pearls, opal. 1879. Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope
Love for insect designs existed at all times, but the real passion for them began in the early XIX century, due to the development of the natural sciences. Since then, bugs, butterflies, ants, ladybirds, dragonflies and spiders forever became one of the most popular images in jewelry. Indeed, nearly all fashion houses have their precious insectarium, replenished from time to time with new swatches.
Jewelers of XIX century not just used images of insects, but almost copied naturalistic albums with sketches and ordered sketches from entomologists. Actually, the correct word for insect jewelry of XIX century would be “entomological”.
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Antique jeweled buttons

Antique jeweled buttons

Blackened silver crystal floral design button. Antique jeweled buttons

Antique jeweled buttons
The history of buttons is interesting and diverse. The first of their counterparts include fasteners, which appeared in the 3rd millennium BC. The excavations in the Indus Valley discovered a button with two holes for sewing.
In Europe, the first find dates back to the 4th century BC. These were the items for bonding pieces of clothing from the ancient Greeks, who fastened their leather belts. From that time until the 1st century AD were found the samples made of gold. A medieval knight brought them to Europe from the Middle East.
Button-like objects of stone, glass, bone, ceramic, and gold have been found at archaeological sites dating as early as 2000 B.C.E. According to the search, people used them as decoration on cloth or strung like beads. Nevertheless, they have the familiar holes for a thread, and served as fasteners.
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Symbolism of wearing rings

Symbolism of wearing rings. Portrait of the Infanta of Spain and Queen Isabella Clara Eugenia of Austria'

Fragment of work by Alonso Sanchez Coello (1531-1588) ‘Portrait of the Infanta of Spain and Queen Isabella Clara Eugenia of Austria’. Symbolism of wearing rings

Symbolism of wearing rings
Ring on the thumb – a symbol of wealth, on the index – belonging to a powerful family or any fraternity, and a ring on the little finger may indicate professional status. Does it matter on which finger to wear a ring?
There are many traditions in wearing jewelry. Knowing the symbolism, you can “make a statement” or learn something about its owner.
Rigid set of rules on which finger and which hand to wear the ring does not exist and anyone can wear the ring as he pleases, except wedding. But there are nuances. For example, in the majority of South and North America, including, most European countries wedding ring is worn on the ring finger of the left hand, and in accordance with Orthodox tradition they are worn on the ring finger of the right hand.
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Elsa Schiaparelli twelve commandments

Elsa Schiaparelli twelve commandments

Hand-made embroidery in fashion design. Elsa Schiaparelli twelve commandments

Elsa Schiaparelli twelve commandments
Born Elsa Luisa Maria, into a noble Italian family, Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) is a renowned Parisian fashion designer. Noteworthy, the well-known Coco Chanel wanted to be like her, in witty look at things, and the courage of the experimenter. She cooperated with the best representatives of the artistic elite of the time. The gift of the artist forever provided for Schiaparelli a place in the history of fashion. She still amazes and inspires artists, costumers, and designers from all over the world.
The phenomenon of Surrealism played a huge role in the development of modern fashion design. Schiaparelli grew up in an eccentric environment, and in New York she eagerly followed the development of the Art Deco and Cubism.
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