The flamingo brooch commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for the Duchess in 1940 as a birthday gift. Cartier jewelry house

Cartier jewelry house

Born Louis-Francois Cartier in 1819 in France, his family was not wealthy. His father was engaged in the production of horns for gunpowder, and the boy’s mother was sure that he would follow in the footsteps of his father. However, even at an early age, Louis showed interest in art. Fortunately, parents decided to develop his talent, and Louis Francois went to Paris to study at Adolphe Picard’s workshop. Noteworthy, in 1847 Louis-François Cartier bought Picard’s workshop. Thus, the history of Cartier jewelry began.
Six years later Cartier opened a second workshop in Paris. Two weeks after the opening of the second Cartier salon, the best friend of Princess Matilda, the niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, entered the shop. Naturally, then Cartier did not even suspect this, and the countess, meanwhile, bought three brooches.
Having examined the brooches more closely, the Countess fell in love with the work of the master. Next, she showed her unsurpassed purchases to Princess Mathilde and Empress Eugenia, the wife of Napoleon the Third. Of course, all women who were true connoisseurs of jewelry art, appreciated the amazing decorations. For three years the royal people have purchased from Louis Cartier more than 150 ornaments. Undoubtedly, Cartier gained fame from all high-ranking individuals, and Princess Mathilde became patroness of Cartier. Of course, this patronage was incredibly useful for Cartier.
More »

Opal, amethyst gold pendant. Early 20th century Suffragette costume jewelry

Early 20th century Suffragette costume jewelry
The movement for the granting of electoral rights to women, during the reign of Queen Victoria was a kind of equivalent to today’s political status. Ladies, participating in this movement preferred special ornaments, known as Suffragette jewelry.
Most popular were brooches and pendants decorated with green, white, red and violet gemstones. Noteworthy, the stone color had a special meaning. According to the first letters of their names, the suffragettes ciphered their appeal: “Give women the right to vote.” Thus, costume jewelry became a kind of symbol of women’s emancipation during the reign of Queen Victoria.
In addition, the decorations worn by the participants of the movement, included the royal symbols, where each gemstone had a meaning. For example, the Amethysts represented Royalty, the Emeralds represented Nature and the Pearls represented Purity. Violet was the favorite color of Queen Alexandra, and the Prince of Wales preferred stone of white and green color, peridot.
More »

Photo published in magazine “England”, 1980. British goldsmith jeweler Jocelyn Burton

British goldsmith jeweler Jocelyn Burton

Born Sara Jocelyn Margarita Elissa Burton in 1946, she belongs to a generation of graduates of art schools of the 1960s, fascinated by the possibilities of organic materials. In particular, stained wood, corals, tree bark, etc. She launched her jewelry workshop in London in 1971. Noteworthy, Jocelyn became the first female Freeman at the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths (1974), and she also became a Freeman of the City of London.
According to the designer, she was overwhelmed by the desire to twist and bend. At some point she was drawn to creating simple, more massive forms.
“When I stopped painting and went into the art of jewelry, she says, I had a feeling that no one had done anything like that. Indeed, her current works are original, at least not like everything else, some of her ideas seem so natural, that you wonder how it never occurred to anyone before to do the same thing.
Jocelyn Burton died on 5 April 2020, at the age of 74.
More »

Grape earrings, gold tone metal, rhinestones. Elsa Schiaparelli vintage costume jewellery

Elsa Schiaparelli vintage costume jewellery

Born in Rome, Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) is a talented jewelry designer, who worked in a surreal direction that shocked critics in the 1930s. However, her products quickly gained popularity and still admired by modern collectors.
Just like Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli believed that costume jewelry is both an independent art and an integral part of clothing. However, unlike the elegant classical design of Chanel’s products, the decorations of Schiaparelli made in 1920-30’s had unexpected forms. She used circus and astrological motifs, and the natural forms of flora and fauna acquired an irrational stylized character. The strangest specimens included pea pods as pendants in necklaces and brooches in the form of human eyes… .
Undoubtedly, the modernist trend of the twentieth century – surrealism influenced her creativity. Besides, she had creative contacts with the vivid representatives of this direction. The influence of surrealism on her works is most noticeable in the dramatic collection of 1936 “Shocking Pink”.
More »

A set of beautiful rings created by English jeweler Gillian Packard

1960s leading English jeweler Gillian Packard (1938-1997)
Born in Newcastle upon Tyne, Gillian Packard was the main young English jeweler who gained fame in the 1960s. She was the chairman of the British branch of the World Council for Applied Arts, the position she was elected to in 1969. The scope of her duties included the care of the welfare of other masters of applied art. And this increased the number of her trips even more, because she needed to attend meetings in different parts of the world. She also largely ensured the participation of Great Britain in all major exhibitions abroad.
Creative in her work, she was an artist who synthesized the experience of decorative art in her miniature masterpieces.
Oddly enough, but Packard didn’t wear her jewelry. In everyday life she wore only an engagement and wedding rings, and in the evening she sometimes added earrings from her collection. But never any other jewelry.
More »

Stunning Celtic cross. Watermelon Glass cabochons, 1970. Miracle costume jewellery Celtic spirit

Miracle costume jewellery Celtic spirit

The history of ornaments labeled “MIRACLE”, or Sol D’Or (sun of gold) began in 1946. Created by the company Hill & Co, Miracle Jewelry LTD began producing costume jewelry in Birmingham – the heart of the jewelry industry in England.
For more than 70 years, they have made excellent jewelry in the traditions of the Celts, Ireland, Scotland, Vikings, Anglo-Saxons, English Baroque, Middle Ages and other styles. Due to the meticulousness of the designers working on Miracle – all ornaments have a historical basis.
Noteworthy, “Miracle” craftsmen often used natural stones or imitation of their special invention. In particular, transparent glass and smalt of a unique composition and different colors.
Until now, the company produced limited collections jewelry, which quality is still on top. Sold mainly in the UK and Ireland, Miracle has its own unique style with meaning.
Worn by both women and men, the brooch combined a decorative and utilitarian function. It was a functional detail, and also contained a magical subtext, acting as an amulet. According to belief, such amulet protects from all sorts of evil spirits.
More »

The Sun in your hands. An Indian boy Aladdin holding a vase with a large disc. Gold tone metal brooch. Length 5 cm. 1960s. £ 20 JJ (the price from the catalog). Jewelarama vintage jewelry from “Difffraction” collection

Jewelarama vintage jewelry Difffraction Jewels
Located in Barrington, New Jersey, the jewelry making company Jewelarama was in fact, a branch of a large manufacturer of optics, Edmund Scientific Co.. First they released the series called “Difffraction Jewels” in 1960. Noteworthy, their decorations became innovative and unique in design. The centerpiece of every ornament was a round polished metal disc that reflected light. According to other sources, this series was known as “Refraction Jewels”. In the creation of jewelry craftsmen used silver and gold tone metal, and in the center of every piece was polished metal disk.
Costume jewelry lovers still enjoy their brooches and earrings in the form of musical instruments, flowers and animals. Rare on jewelry markets, made in 1960s Jewelerama pieces were featured in many catalogs of vintage costume jewelry.
More »