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American jewelry designer William Ruser

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American jewelry designer William Ruser

‘Friday’s Child’ brooch from ‘Children of the Week’ collection. 14 K gold, sapphire, freshwater pearls. 1950s. American jewelry designer William Ruser

American jewelry designer William Ruser (1908-1994)
The name of William Ruser is little known today, but from 1949 to 1969 he was one of California’s most sought-after jewelers. His clients included Hollywood stars such as Joan Crawford, Marlene Dietrich, Loretta Young and Lana Turner.
Born in Philadelphia in 1908, Ruser began his career in 1925 in Atlantic City at Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin jewelry company. Then, he moved to Beverly Hills, where he ran a subsidiary of that firm at 300 Rodeo Drive. However, in the 1940s, due to the WWII, he had to leave the business to join the Army. Already in 1949, Ruser, along with his wife Pauline, opened his own business – Ruser Jewels – on Rodeo Drive.
Remarkably, Ruser was able to bring back the popularity of freshwater pearls, which he often used in his designs. It all started with a shoebox containing pearls he bought in the 1930s from a button salesman in Mississippi. The designer made his figural jewelry with the use of baroque pearls, gold, diamonds and precious stones. The maker’s mark traditionally includes stylized word “Ruser”, “copyright” and “14K” or “18K” (for purity of gold).
Ruser retired in 1969 and sold his business to Van Cleef & Arpels. He died in 1994.

Barbara Stanwyck in 'Sorry, Wrong Number' (1948)

Barbara Stanwyck in ‘Sorry, Wrong Number’ (1948)

During the 20-year period of the existence of Ruser Jewels, his jewelry appeared in many films. Among them, in particular, “Sorry, Wrong Number” (1948), the very first film in which actress Barbara Stanwyck demonstrates William Ruser jewelry. The beautiful Joan Crawford wore the jewels of the famous master in Sudden Fear (1952), Shirley MacLaine and Caroline Jones in Career (1955).

Maker's mark 3

Maker’s mark

American jewelry designer William Ruser

‘Angel Child’ earrings. 14 K gold, pearls. 1960s

‘Angel Child’ earrings. 14 K gold, pearls. 1960s

‘Thursday's Child’ brooch from ‘Children of the Week’ collection. 14 K gold, sapphire, freshwater pearls. 1950s

‘Thursday’s Child’ brooch from ‘Children of the Week’ collection. 14 K gold, sapphire, freshwater pearls. 1950s

1950s bracelet. 18 K gold, diamonds

1950s bracelet. 18 K gold, diamonds

A child catching a butterfly brooch. 14 K gold, sapphire

A child catching a butterfly brooch. 14 K gold, sapphire

A girl with a bird gold and jade brooch. 1950s

A girl with a bird gold and jade brooch. 1950s

Bee brooch. 14 K gold, ruby eyes, pearl wings

Bee brooch. 14 K gold, ruby eyes, pearl wings

Bird gold tie tack

Bird gold tie tack

Cancer Zodiac sign pendant. 14 K rose gold

Cancer Zodiac sign pendant. 14 K rose gold

Cherub Angel brooch. 14 K gold, diamonds, freshwater pearls. 1960s

Cherub Angel brooch. 14 K gold, diamonds, freshwater pearls. 1960s

Emerald, diamond and gold ring. 1960s

Emerald, diamond and gold ring. 1960s

Geometric design 14 K gold and sapphire cufflinks with engraved motto ‘I Beam When I Think of You’ and ‘May Our Golden Days Endure Like Steel’

Geometric design 14 K gold and sapphire cufflinks with engraved motto ‘I Beam When I Think of You’ and ‘May Our Golden Days Endure Like Steel’

Hummingbird brooch. Platinum, diamonds, sapphire, freshwater pearls

Hummingbird brooch. Platinum, diamonds, sapphire, freshwater pearls

North East West South Weathervane horse 14 K gold brooch

North East West South Weathervane horse 14 K gold brooch

Poodle brooch. Gold, diamonds, onyx

Poodle brooch. Gold, diamonds, onyx

Sapphire, diamond and 18 K gold brooch

Sapphire, diamond and 18 K gold brooch

Squirrel brooch pin. 14 K gold, pearl, diamonds

Squirrel brooch pin. 14 K gold, pearl, diamonds

Sunflower brooch and earrings. 18 K gold, diamonds

Sunflower brooch and earrings. 18 K gold, diamonds

Tree of Life circle pendant. 14 K gold, freshwater pearls

Tree of Life circle pendant. 14 K gold, freshwater pearls

Vintage Hummingbird brooch. 14 K gold, sapphire, freshwater pearls

Vintage Hummingbird brooch. 14 K gold, sapphire, freshwater pearls

Curled leaf yellow gold clip earrings

Curled leaf yellow gold clip earrings

Maker's mark

Maker’s mark

Trademark

Trademark