American jewelry designer Paul Flato

American jewelry designer Paul Flato
Flower basket brooch. Gold, Pearl, Diamond, precious stones. American jewelry designer Paul Flato

American jewelry designer Paul Flato
The life of the famous American jeweler of the 1930s-1940s, Paul Flato is worth writing a book or making a film. It had everything – ups and downs, stunning success and imprisonment. But he, like a Phoenix bird, again and again returned to his favorite work. Married three times, he was familiar with many famous people of that time, but in difficult times was left without the support of family and friends.
Born into a wealthy German family in Texas, from childhood he was fascinated by the jewelry of his mother and other women who visited their house. In 1920 he moved to New York, dropping out of his studies at the Austin University and losing the support of his family.

He began working as an assistant at jeweler and watch dealer Edmund Frisch. After a while, he opened his own store on nearby 57th Street. In March 1941, he founded two trademarks, Paul Flato and Flato (with a claim to be used since October 1924) for silver, gold and platinum jewelry.

American jewelry designer Paul Flato. 1937
Portrait of Paul Flato (September 1, 1900 – July 17, 1999). 1937

His business began with gifts to fellow students, as well as the sale of natural pearl strands and large diamonds. Gradually, he got acquaintances with famous and influential people, who soon became his clients and friends. Also, he traveled a lot around the world.

American jewelry designer Paul Flato

Aquamarine belt necklace with ruby buckles, designed by Fulco di Verdura for Paul Flato in 1935, commissioned by the composer Cole Porter for his wife Linda Porter
Aquamarine belt necklace with ruby buckles, designed by Fulco di Verdura for Flato in 1935, commissioned by the composer Cole Porter for his wife Linda Porter

Noteworthy, Flato’s designers, in addition to himself, were Adolphe Klety, who created flowers and jewelry made of platinum and diamonds. Also, George Headley, renowned for making jewelry and accessories in gold; Fulco di Verdura and others. Besides, his clients participated in the development of the design. In particular, two celebrities of the time, Millicent Rogers and Josephine Ogden Forrestal. Based on sketches by Millicent Rogers, socialite and fashion icon, heiress of Standard Oil, Flato designed the Fat Hearts brooch series.

Signature
Maker’s mark

When Flato began having hearing problems, he created “sign language” clips and brooches, soon featured in Vogue magazine. Later he developed a whole series of gold paired brooches “In Sign Language”.

In March 1938, Flato opened his boutique on Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles. Flato’s Hollywood career began with the 1938 film Holiday, starring Katharine Hepburn and Cary Grant. At the request of film director he designed jewelry for the film. He also designed decorations for other movies with Hollywood stars, such as Virginia Bruce, Greta Garbo, Merp Oberon, Rita Hayworth and Marlene Dietrich.

Later in 1943, Paul Flato was arrested for theft and fraudulent jewelry to suppliers and customers and declared bankrupt. He returned from Mexico to Texas, where at the age of 70 he opened his own store after a second imprisonment. Flato died in 1999 in his homeland in Texas at the age of 90.

A pair of clips in the form of shoes. Gold, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, 1938
A pair of clips in the form of shoes. Gold, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, 1938

American jewelry designer Paul Flato

Strawberry clip brooches. Gold, diamonds, rubies. 1940s
Strawberry clip brooches. Gold, diamonds, rubies. 1940s
African Lady brooch. Sterling silver, gold plated, enamel, rhinestones. 6 cm. 1940s
African Lady brooch. Sterling silver, gold plated, enamel, rhinestones. 6 cm. 1940s
Autumn leaf brooch. Gold, citrine
Autumn leaf brooch. Gold, citrine
22 October 1940 patent for leaf brooch design
22 October 1940 patent for leaf brooch design
Brooch in the form of shoe. 14 K Gold, amethyst. 1930s
Shoe Brooch. 14 K Gold, amethyst. 1930s
Cactus brooches designed for Linda Porter. Platinum, emeralds, diamonds, 1940
Cactus brooches designed for Linda Porter. Platinum, emeralds, diamonds, 1940
Design for a compact, 1940 patent
Design for a compact, 1940 patent
Dogwood flower compact, produced between 1945 and 1952 after his release from prison
Dogwood flower compact, produced between 1945 and 1952 after his release from prison
Patent drawing for Dogwood flower compact. 1949
Patent drawing for Dogwood flower compact. 1949
Eight-pointed star brooch. Two-Color Gold, Sapphire and Diamond, 1940
Eight-pointed star brooch. Two-Color Gold, Sapphire and Diamond, 1940
Fat Heart series of brooches. 18k gold, platinum, enamel, rubies, sapphires, painted diamonds, 1938
Fat Heart series of brooches. 18k gold, platinum, enamel, rubies, sapphires, diamonds, 1938
Feather brooch. 18 Karat Gold, Platinum and Diamond, Circa 1940
Feather brooch. 18 K Gold, Platinum and Diamond, Circa 1940
Feather plume brooch designed by Fulco di Verdura for Paul Flato. circa 1935. Gold, platinum, diamonds
Feather plume brooch designed by Fulco di Verdura for Flato. circa 1935. Gold, platinum, diamonds
Fire opal ring. 18 Karat Gold, Fire Opal, Sapphire and Diamond. Mid 1980s
Fire opal ring. 18 K Gold, Fire Opal, Sapphire and Diamond. Mid 1980s
Flato also designed the Hand of God brooch with gold fingers surrounded by diamond stars for actress Joan Bennett
Hand of God brooch with gold fingers surrounded by diamond stars, made for actress Joan Bennett
From a series of gold brooches 'Sign language' worn in pairs
Series of gold brooches ‘Sign language’ worn in pair
1940 patent for Leaf brooch
1940 patent for Leaf brooch
Leaf brooch. Platinum, diamonds
Leaf brooch. Platinum, diamonds
Lupin flower brooch. 18 Karat Gold, Diamond and Colored Diamond. Circa 1945
Lupin flower brooch. 18 K K gold, diamond. Circa 1945
Marlene Dietrich wearing a peacock feather necklace by Flato in 'The Lady Wants It', 1942
Marlene Dietrich wearing a peacock feather necklace by Flato in ‘The Lady Wants It’, 1942
Millicent Rogers. 1940s
Millicent Rogers. 1940s
Pair of 18 Karat Gold, Diamond and Enamel Cufflinks
Pair of 18 Karat Gold, Diamond and Enamel Cufflinks
Pear brooch. 14 Karat Gold, Citrine and Diamond. 1940s
Pear brooch. 14 K Gold, Citrine and Diamond. 1940s
Rose brooch. Platinum, diamonds. 1940s
Rose brooch. Platinum, diamonds. 1940s
Turquoise bird brooch. 1951. Gold tone metal alloy, rhinestones. 8.8 cm
Turquoise bird brooch. 1951. Gold, rhinestones. 8.8 cm
In 1938, a black enamel hand appeared on Katharine Hepburn's blouse in the movie 'Holiday'
In 1938, a black enamel hand appeared on Katharine Hepburn’s blouse in the movie ‘Holiday’
Katharine Hepburn wearing Flato jewels in 'Holiday'
Katharine Hepburn wearing Flato jewels in ‘Holiday’
Vogue 15 December 1937 features Flato jewelry 'In Sign Language'
Vogue 15 December 1937 features Sign Language jewelry
1938 ads
1938 ads
Retro ads. Fabulous jewels by Flato
Retro ad
September 1940 Vogue featuring Flato jewels
September 1940 Vogue
Signature
Maker’s mark

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