American jewelry designer Eugene Bertolli

American jewelry designer Eugene Bertolli (1923 - 2015)
Endangered species collections. Ferret. Gold plated silver pendant necklace. 1972. American jewelry designer Eugene Bertolli (1923 – 2015)

American jewelry designer Eugene Bertolli (1923 – 2015)
The Endangered Species series, created in the early 1970s, is undoubtedly one of the most significant works of the renowned jewelry designer Eugene E. Bertolli. The collection, in particular, included figurative images of animals in the thickets of the forest – an elephant, a fox, an otter, a lynx, a ferret and a mountain lion, made of sterling silver and gilding. This collection shows Eugene Bertolli as a talented artist, sculptor, jewelry designer and nature lover.
Another significant early 1970s jewelry collection was “The Dynasty”, designed by Bertolli for Napier prior to President Nixon’s visit to China in 1972. Notably, Nixon was the first American president to visit mainland China. The collection included traditional Chinese symbols, from dragons to meaningful Chinese characters. This collection shows Bertolli not only as a talented designer and artist, but also as a well-educated person who graduated with honors from Latin School and College in his native Boston.
These same qualities allowed Bertolli to make a successful career in the iconic jewelry company Napier, in which he worked for almost 40 years. Joining Napier in the late 1940s, he began working under Frederick Rettenmeyer guidance, then as a chief designer, senior vice president, and finally, director of the company.

Aztec square shape brooch. Gold plated brass. 1969
Aztec square shape brooch. Gold plated brass. 1969

Bertolli’s work at Napier has repeatedly earned him the Designer of the Year award, gold medals and awards from numerous national associations of artists and designers. Notably, Bertolli himself served for many years on the juries of many national art associations and lectured on jewelry design and sculpture in the United States and abroad.

American jewelry designer Eugene Bertolli

1962 patents for Bertolli designs
1962 patents for Bertolli designs

Throughout his life, Bertolli was selflessly devoted to his work, family and country. He served the country during the Second World War, worked in Napier for almost 40 years, was involved in public work for many years. Married in 1956 in Meriden, he lived happily with his beautiful wife Jean for 57 years, until her death in 2013.

Eugene E. Bertolli and Jean Tamburine Bertolli
Eugene E. Bertolli and Jean Tamburine Bertolli

The possible success of his family life lies in the right choice of a wife who became his friend and like-minded person. Born in Meriden, Connecticut, Jean Tamburine Bertolli (1930 – 2013) was a multi-award winning sculptor, illustrator and designer. Jean and Eugene raised a son, Eugene Robert Bertolli (b. 1957), who became a doctor, and a daughter, Lisa (b. 1958), who also became a jeweler.

Chinese character Napier Dynasty Collection clip earrings. Brushed gold tone. Early 1970s
Chinese character Napier Dynasty Collection clip earrings. Brushed gold tone. Early 1970s

American jewelry designer Eugene Bertolli

Brutalist molten gold pendant. 1970
Brutalist molten gold pendant. 1970
Butterfly brooch. Gold plated, light yellow enamel. 1971
Butterfly brooch. Gold plated, light yellow enamel. 1971
Chinese dragon textured silver brooch with heart patterns. 1971
Chinese dragon textured silver brooch with heart patterns. 1971
Cream color enamel butterfly motif gold plated pendant necklace. Early 1970s
Cream color enamel butterfly motif gold plated pendant necklace. Early 1970s
Elephant brooch with charms. Gold and silver tone, faux pearls, glass beads. 1960s
Elephant brooch with charms. Gold and silver tone, faux pearls, glass beads. 1960s
Etruscan motif chandelier gold tone earrings. 1970
Etruscan motif chandelier gold tone earrings. 1970
Fan brooch. 925 silver, gilded. 5.6 cm. 1954
Fan brooch. 925 silver, gilded. 5.6 cm. 1954
Fan brooch, 1954 patent
Fan brooch, 1954 patent
Fox pendant from endangered species collection. Silver and gold tone. 1972
Fox pendant from endangered species collection. Silver and gold tone. 1972
Gold plated leaf branch brooch. 1960s
Gold plated leaf branch brooch. 1960s
Leaf design brooch. Gold plated brass, crystals. 1950s
Leaf design brooch. Gold plated brass, crystals. 1950s
Maltese cross clip earrings. Gold plated, Aurora Borealis crystal. 1960s
Maltese cross clip earrings. Gold plated, Aurora Borealis crystal. 1960s
Sculpted brutalist nugget gold plated pendant necklace. 1971
Sculpted brutalist nugget gold plated pendant necklace. 1971
Wheat ear silver plated bracelet, brooch and earrings. 1950s
Wheat ear silver plated bracelet, brooch and earrings. 1950s

Related

Back to top button