Kaleidoscope effect

Primitive face pendant, sterling silver, c. 1960. Ed Levin modernist silver jewelry

Ed Levin modernist silver jewelry
Born in New York and raised on Long Island, Ed Levin (1921-2008) dreamed of becoming an artist. First, he studied fine arts at Columbia University, then sculpture with Chaim Gross, painting with Kurt Seligman and Paul Wieghardt, and ceramics at Alfred University.

Levin first became interested in jewelry in the late 1930s when, as a college student, he was looking for a gift for his mother. He bought two brooches made by Cuban-American jeweler Francisco Rebajes. Noteworthy, Levin made his first jewelry piece in 1942, when he worked as a machinist. These were rings made of stainless steel and silver.
Undoubtedly, Alexander Calder’s aesthetic influenced Ed Levine’s jewelry in those early years.
From 1944, Levin taught art (including painting, ceramics, woodworking, and pottery) during classes at the New Lincoln School. At the same time, he taught crafts at the Community Center on 110th Street in Harlem and was proud that he had taught hundreds of people how to make jewelry.
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Mid-century Star modernist design polished and textured sterling silver pendant. Frank Miraglia modernist silver jewelry

Frank Miraglia modernist silver jewelry (1920s-1963)
The name of New York, NY based jeweler Frank Miraglia (1885-1963) became known in the late 1920s, as a silver costume jewelry maker. Mentioned in The Jewelers’ Circular of 1929, 1941, and 1951, modernist designer Frank Miraglia was one of the greats of the mid-century wearable art movement.
Handcrafting his abstract, geometric and modernist design earrings, brooches and cufflinks, Frank Miraglia traditionally used sterling silver and signed his pieces on the reverse side “F. Miraglia NY Sterling”.
Despite the fact that several reference books on jewelry designs mention the name of Frank Miraglia, there is no biographical information about him. Thus, two reference books “Form & Function” and “Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960: The Wearable Art Movement” by Marbeth Schon feature the designer’s works.
Also, both books by Christie Romero, “Warman’s jewelry: a fully illustrated price guide to 19th and 20th century jewelry” of 1998 and 2002 editions included Frank Miraglia works alongside Frank Rebajes’. Noteworthy, the directory contains a list of jewelers with the dates of birth and death of most of them, but such data is not available next to the name of Frank Miraglia.
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Triangle pendant. Sterling silver, hammered finish. 1970s. Alfred Karram modernist silver jewelry

Alfred Karram modernist silver jewelry (1956-1984)
Renowned New York jewelry designer Alfred Karram (1932–2017) founded Karram 57 Inc in 1956 and opened a store on 57th Street and Madison. His store offered bold modernist pieces ranging from $50 to $100 that appealed to an audience of all ages. The designer was especially pleased that very young people were fans of his work.
In September 1970 he founded Alfred Karram Inc registered at the address 366 5th Avenue, New York. Among the most notable collections created by Karram in the 1970s were “Nugget Block” (1976) and “Cubic Designs” (1978).
Handcrafting his necklaces, bracelets and brooches, Alfred traditionally used silver and gold, as well as freshwater pearls and natural stones – turquoise, tiger’s eye, etc. The designer often combined a smooth polished surface with textured and hammered. Traditionally, he labeled his works “Karram’s” and “Sterling”.
Remarkably, Karram had no formal jewelry training, but his impressive geometric designs still adorn the permanent collections of art and design museums in Boston and New York.
Fascinated by architecture and design, Alfred Karram sold his jewelry business in New York and moved to Florida. His company Alfred Karram Inc ceased to exist in 1984.
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14 K yellow gold abstract brooch. Modernist jeweler Ronald Hayes Pearson (1924-1996)

Modernist jeweler Ronald Hayes Pearson (1924-1996)
Born in New York City, Ronald Hayes Pearson was an award-winning modernist jeweler and one of the most influential figures in American metal smithing.
He opened his first metalworking shop in Alfred, New York after graduating from the School of American Craftsmen at Alfred University in 1948. In addition, in 1949 he participated in the special design program of the well-known silverware manufacturer Reed & Barton Silver Company.
In 1953, Pearson, along with John Preep, Tage Frid and Frans Wildenhain, opened a gallery “Shop One” in Rochester, New York, where craftsmen could sell their unique works of arts and crafts.
However, in 1971 the designer moved to Deer Isle, Maine, where he lived and worked until his death in 1996.
Pearson viewed precious metals as malleable substances that could be stretched or compressed into simple and elegant shapes. Traditionally, the designer used 14K gold, silver, pearls, topaz, agate and other natural stones. The maker’s mark includes “Pearson” or “R.H. Pearson” and sterling or gold purity.
The one-of-a-kind modernist pieces handcrafted by Ronald Hayes Pearson are highly collectible and exhibited in many national art galleries and museums, as well as the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
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Regal Beauty collection oval shape cameo brooch pendant. Gold tone, resin, rhinestones. 1990s. Coreen Simpson vintage jewelry

Coreen Simpson vintage jewelry
The history of Coreen Simpson jewelry began in 1989, when she first created her signature jewelry piece, The Black Cameo®. Five years later, she founded her company Black Cameo Inc. for the production of jewelry inspired by African-American theme.
Black Cameo Inc., registered at 3741-A Victory blvd., Staten Island, New York, and incorporated in September 1994, ceased to exist in 1998. Due to the company’s short lifespan and limited production, Coreen Simpson jewelry is extremely rare in the vintage jewelry market.
Born February 18, 1942 in Brooklyn, Coreen Simpson is a well-known photographer, designer and jeweler. She graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology and Parsons School of Design. She began her career as a photographer and editor for Unique New York magazine in 1980. At the end of 1980s, a freelance photographer, Simpson became interested in jewelry design.
It was black cameo, that brought her success as a jewelry designer, and inspired her most of all. Following the ancient traditions of cameos, Coreen added her unique vision on the beauty of black women creating the “Regal Beauty” Collection (1993). Noteworthy, in 1993 the designer created jewelry for renowned company “Avon”.
As a result, among her clients were such celebrities as Ruby Dee, Oprah Winfrey, Celia Cruz, Kathleen Battle, Nancy Wilson, and Mrs. Denzel Washington.
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Rutilated quartz and gold brooch. British jeweler John Donald (b. 1928)

British jeweler John Donald
He never planned to become a jeweler, but conquered this conservative world with his rebellious jewelry in a matter of days. John Donald’s jewelry design has become synonymous with luxury and British chic. The favorite jeweler of the British royal family, he began a new era in the history of design. His father was a professional golfer, and John chose between a sports career and an academic one, but chose the arts.
He studied for a while at Farnham Art College and planned to become a graphic designer. But in 1952 he was offered a transfer to the Faculty of Metalworking at the Royal College of Art in London. A regular visitor to the Museum of Natural History, he was one of the first to use “natural” crystals in combination with precious metals, bringing back the fashion for baroque pearls, which had long been considered “unworthy” material.
He graduated in 1955, and founded his own studio in 1960. Using gold rod and uncut crystal, he created expressive pieces which style and shape were absolutely unique. Noteworthy, brooches were the first pieces John Donald made using his innovative techniques. Thus, they launched his career as an artist-jeweller.
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Coffee cup with charms brooch pin. Made by Joseph Brinton for Jody Coyote Rose. Joseph Brinton costume jewelry

Joseph Brinton costume jewelry
Born July 18, 1957 in Portland, Oregon, Joseph R. Brinton is a talented artist, ceramist, sculptor and jewelry designer. He received a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree in ceramics from Alfred University in upstate New York in 1982. After graduation, he returned to his native Portland and worked as a designer for several years. In 1993, he opened his own business, Joseph Brinton Designs, specializing in clay sculpture and design.
Over time, the designer became interested in creating jewelry. In 2012, he founded the eponymous company “Joseph Brinton Jewelry” registered at 5001 SE Brooklyn St, Portland.
Handcrafting animal and contemporary aesthetic designs (mostly earrings), he used silver-filled or 14-carat rolled gold for the hypoallergenic earpieces. A variety of materials included etched brass, copper, surgical steel, aluminium, wood, leather, glass, enamels and acrylic. The designer did not sign his jewelry and sold his creations on branded cards in boutiques and art fairs. Founded in 2012, Joseph Brinton Jewelry Company ceased to exist in 2020. Joseph Brinton has been owned by Beautiful Medusa in Oregon since 2022.
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