Kaleidoscope effect

Jewellery kaleidoscope

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Brooch. Gold, diamonds, pearls, opal. 1879

Insects in jewelry existed at all times, but the real fashion for them began in the early XIX century with the development of the natural sciences. Since then, bugs, butterflies, ants, ladybirds, dragonflies and spiders forever became one of the most popular images in jewelry, and still virtually all known fashion houses have their precious insectarium, replenished from time to time with new swatches. Jewelers of XIX century not just used images of insects, but almost copied the mother nature and always had a naturalistic albums with sketches of insects and ordered sketches from entomologists. Actually brooches and necklaces of XIX century would be correct to call the “entomological”.

Victorian brooch. Gold, moonstone, diamonds, approx. 1890

Victorian brooch. Gold, moonstone, diamonds, approx. 1890

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Bracelet Watch as a scarab beetle. Lapis lazuli, onyx, emeralds, diamonds. Boucheron. 2011

Bracelet Watch as a scarab beetle. Lapis lazuli, onyx, emeralds, diamonds. Boucheron. 2011

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope

Swiss watch-brooch in the form of a beetle. Gold, enamel guilloche, diamonds. By pressing the button on the tail, wings open, showing the dial. The end of the 19th century

Victorian brooch, gold, opal, diamond, the first third of the 19th century

Victorian brooch, gold, opal, diamond, the first third of the 19th century

Butterflies, dragonflies were made by famous workshops of Russian jewelers – Ovchinnikov, Sazikov, Khlebnikov, Faberge. They used the new-fangled technologies of enamel, filigree guilloche, as well as a whole bunch of inlaid precious stones: amethyst, garnet, agate, and many others.

Casket. Silver grenades. Pavel Ovchinnikov. Russia. 19th Century

Casket. Silver grenades. Pavel Ovchinnikov. Russia. 19th Century

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope

Brooch-pendant. Gold, platinum, pearls, diamonds. The beginning of the 20th century

Superiority in the manufacture of jewelry insect belongs to Louis-Francois Cartier, “the king of jewelers and the jeweler of kings”. By the twentieth century, the popularity of insects has increased thanks to the famous Rene Lalique, a passionate lover of insects. The dragonfly is considered one of the most popular images in his jewelry, although he did not pass by other “winged” creatures:

Rene Lalique insect jewelry

Rene Lalique insect jewelry

Rene Lalique insect jewelry

Rene Lalique insect jewelry

Rene Lalique insect jewelry

Rene Lalique insect jewelry

For the Paris World Exhibition in 1900, Alphonse Mucha and Georges Fouquet developed a collection of art nouveau. These ornaments are very different from the traditional jewelry designs at the time, but the audience and critics took them favorably. In that collection – a lot of insects too:

Art nouveau jewelry

Art nouveau jewelry

One of the most recognized contemporary insect amateur jewelers is considered Gilbert Albert, who always said that the beauty of jewels lies not in the number of carats, but in the original idea of performance. However, most jewelry collections of jewelry house Gilbert Albert framed in precious metals and precious stones are the same.

Gilbert Albert insect jewelry

Gilbert Albert insect jewelry

The most popular species of insects have always been and remain the butterflies and dragonflies.

Victorian brooch. Gold, emeralds, diamonds. 1890

Victorian brooch. Gold, emeralds, diamonds. 1890

Firstly, their natural coloring is the most attractive and bright, and secondly, the shape and symmetry of the wings fit perfectly into the design of the product. An important role plays also symbolism of these insects.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope

Brooch – gold, opal, sapphire, pearls. The first half of the 19th century. England

Victorian brooch. Gold, amethyst, citrine and garnet, approx. 1890

Victorian brooch. Gold, amethyst, citrine and garnet, approx. 1890

So, many people associated butterfly with the soul of man, it is a symbol of immortality.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope

Victorian brooch. Gold, coral. about 1890

A dragonfly as if confirms a proactive stance of a man who chooses such jewelry. In addition, like a butterfly, it is a symbol of salvation of the soul and a short but beautiful human life, lightness, grace and levity.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Victorian brooch. Gold, enamel, diamonds

Victorian brooch. Gold, enamel, diamonds

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Victorian brooch. Gold, emeralds, rubies, diamonds

Victorian brooch. Gold, emeralds, rubies, diamonds

The second place should be given to beetles, more precisely, scarab beetles. They were made in large numbers even in ancient Egypt, where these beetles are known to be regarded as sacred:

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Scarab beetle ring

Scarab beetle ring

Scarab beetle to the ancient Egyptians – god Khepera, a symbol of immortality, eternal life, a new sun born every morning, and at the same time the way that it makes. Scarab – a symbol and a synonym for the soul, and persistent movement towards the goal and the path to the wisdom of the pupil.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Scarab beetle necklace

Scarab beetle necklace

Later, jewelers began to copy things like that, basing their choices not so much on the form of a beetle, but on the association with ancient Egypt and rare antique image of a scarab. For example, the Victorian Scarab brooch:

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Medallion Scarab beetle. Gold, enamel, micro-mosaics. Italy, mid 19th century

Medallion Scarab beetle. Gold, enamel, micro-mosaics. Italy, mid 19th century

Insect jewellery symbolism. Victorian Scarab brooch

Victorian Scarab brooch

Stag beetle is close to scarab and the later tradition is associated with the Egyptian Khepera. However, in this image the main significance in its horns, which are a symbol of power and strength, mostly phallic, male.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Brooch. Gold, silver, diamonds, rubies. Russia, Carl Faberge, the beginning of the 20th century

Brooch. Gold, silver, diamonds, rubies. Russia, Carl Faberge, the beginning of the 20th century

Insect jewellery symbolism. Victorian brooch. carved amethyst, diamonds, gold

Victorian brooch. carved amethyst, diamonds, gold

Insect jewellery symbolism. Victorian silver brooch

Victorian silver brooch

The image of a ladybug should be also mentioned. It received its name from the fact that many people considered it an insect of Virgin. In all cultures ladybug stands as a symbol of good luck and good news, as well as a symbol of grace, kindness and forgiveness. It is believed that the ladybug acts as a messenger between humans and God. To find ladybug was considered a good omen.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Victorian brooch. Gold, Essex crystal

Victorian brooch. Gold, Essex crystal

Ladybird was associated with the Great Goddess, and later was an attribute of the Virgin. Hence its name in European languages: “Our Lady Bird,” “beetle of Mary.” In Norway it is called very funny “chicken of Mary.” Nowadays ladybird became to symbolize love and sexuality.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Tiffany, 1948

Tiffany, 1948

In addition, specific spots on the back, made using precious stones, very harmoniously fit into the image of any product. And the sheer number of spots on the shell also has a certain symbolic significance: the more spots, the more this is considered good luck charm. One spot – a great start to the new deal, the two – a symbol of harmony, three – people will be able to find the right solution in a difficult situation, four spots – protection against theft, five – enhance creativity, six – will help in the study, seven – a special sign a pledge of good luck in all cases.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Gold, diamonds, red bo guilloche. Russia, late 19th - early 20th century

Gold, diamonds, red bo guilloche. Russia, late 19th – early 20th century

Slightly less were used images of wasps and flies. Bee is not only a symbol of hard work, but also creation, but the wasp – a more complex character that later became associated with a sharp tongue and ability to fend off the attacks of enemies.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Brooch Wasp. France, 19th century. Gold, enamel and diamonds

Brooch Wasp. France, 19th century. Gold, enamel and diamonds

Bee and bumblebee have always been associated with hard work, the wasp – with perseverance and a fly with business activity.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Gold Victorian brooch. Baroque pearl, yellow and white diamonds, rubies

Gold Victorian brooch. Baroque pearl, yellow and white diamonds, rubies

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Gold Victorian brooch. Baroque pearls, diamonds, sapphires, rubies

Gold Victorian brooch. Baroque pearls, diamonds, sapphires, rubies

Insect jewellery symbolism. Victorian brooch. Gold, enamel, diamonds

Victorian brooch. Gold, enamel, diamonds

Perhaps there is no more controversial image in insect jewelry art and at the same time, more fashionable at all times, than the image of a spider. It is the creator of the world, and the treacherous and cunning hunter. Our ancestors saw a spider sitting in the center of its web, the solar deity, to create itself from the universe. With spider related topic and weaving in all senses.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Brooch. Gold, diamonds, amethysts, rubies. Russia, early 20th century

Brooch. Gold, diamonds, amethysts, rubies. Russia, early 20th century

In Russia, the spider has always been associated with wealth, good luck and good news, but the spider descending on the web – with the divine gifts, gifts of fate. Therefore in jewelry spider is often depicted together with cobwebs. According to legend, during the flight of Muhammad from Mecca, he had to hide in a cave, and Allah sent a spider web to input veil hiding prophet. Thus, the decoration with a web can be considered as a protective amulet.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Cufflinks. Gold, platinum. Russia, the beginning of the twentieth century

Cufflinks. Gold, platinum, diamonds. Russia, the beginning of the twentieth century

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Sometimes spider is portrayed next to a fly, brooch

Sometimes spider is portrayed next to a fly, brooch

Fly – not only the victim but also the protector. Images of flies on ancient gems were a talisman against evil. It is also a symbol of courage – brave soldiers in ancient times were awarded gold flies. Fly was portrayed quite often in life-size in the most prominent place in the paintings of Dutch, German and Italian artists of XV-XVI centuries. It is a talisman against real insects that could defile the picture.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Victorian brooch. Gold, pearls, diamonds, rubies, sapphires

Victorian brooch. Gold, pearls, diamonds, rubies, sapphires

There is one rather frightening appearance, an insect, however, looks very impressive in jewelry. This is cicada.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Necklace with cicada. Silver, enamel, Early 20th Century

Necklace with cicada. Silver, enamel, Early 20th Century

Cicada – a symbol of longevity, happiness and eternal youth. Likely explanation for this is the fact that the cicada lives longer than any other insects – to 18 years. The origin of this symbol appears to be associated with the legend of the cicadas: she was kind and fair queen, reborn after death in the form of cicada. Becoming a cicada, it did not grow old physically and lived longer than all other insects. Since then, the cicada became a symbol of eternal youth.

Insect Jewellery Kaleidoscope. Victorian silver brooch. Silver, enamel, rubies

Victorian silver brooch. Silver, enamel, rubies

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