Kaleidoscope effect

Jewellery kaleidoscope

Alexander Calder spiral jewellery

Alexander Calder spiral jewellery. Necklace, Estimate $200,000 – 300,000

Alexander Calder spiral jewellery. Necklace, Estimate $200,000 – 300,000. Photo – sothebys.com

Alexander Calder loved the spiral sign and often repeated it in his jewellery. He believed it to be a talisman of a successful life. His earrings, necklaces and bracelets were mini-mobiles that dangled from the wrists, necks and earlobes. During his life, he created more than 1800 pieces of jewelry, each one is unique, invented and made by Calder himself. He created jewelry from steel wire, copper, silver and gold, often decorating it with what was lying under his feet: beach glass, pottery shards, pebbles, splinters. Alexander Calder was born in a family of successful artists in 1898. His father was a sculptor, mother – a painter. Since childhood, Alexander was able to engage in a home studio. At 8 years old, he created decorations for the dolls of his sisters, at 10 he created a small sculpture.

Necklace created in 1930 by Alexander Calder, to the birthday of his mother

Necklace created in 1930 by Alexander Calder, to the birthday of his mother

Despite the precocious talent, Alexander was not going to become an artist and enrolled at the Stevens Institute of Technology, from which he graduated in 1919 with an engineering degree. After graduation he worked as an engineer, hydraulic engineer, even a stoker on the ship.
One day, while serving on a ship, Alexander woke up and went on deck. He saw a clean, clear dawn from one side of the horizon and the full moon on the other. This phenomenon has made an indelible impression on him, and throughout his life he returned to it in his work.
In 1923 he moved to New York and joined the Art Students League. At the same time, he joined the National Police Gazette as an illustrator. Alexander returned to his hobby: creating jewelry for the mother and sisters.

Louisa Calder - beloved wife of the artist. In the photo - in necklace created by Calder

Louisa Calder – beloved wife of the artist. In the photo – in necklace created by Calder

In January 1931 was the wedding of Alexander Calder and Louisa James (a niece of the writer Henry James). Calder loved Louisa tenderly and faithfully, spoiled her as much as he could, including decorations. During his life, Calder created more than 1800 pieces of jewelry. Each of them is unique, invented and made by Calder. He created jewelry from copper, silver and gold, often decorating them with what was lying under his feet: beach glass, pottery shards, pebbles, splinters. Most of the jewelry he created for his beloved wife Louise and his friends.

Louisa Calder wearing an engagement ring created by Calder

Louisa Calder wearing an engagement ring created by Calder

A gold and steel wire pin by Alexander Calder, a birthday gift to his wife, Louisa, on Feb. 19, 1958

A gold and steel wire pin by Alexander Calder, a birthday gift to his wife, Louisa, on Feb. 19, 1958

The sale of Calder jewelry lasted a very short time during the Second World War, in order to support the family. Several times he was offered to sell the jewelry design and establish mass production, but each time Calder refused. Calder loved the spiral sign and often repeated it in his jewellery. He believed it to be a talisman of a successful life.

Alexander Calder Flower and Leaves Necklace, Estimate $300,000 – 400,000

Alexander Calder Flower and Leaves Necklace, Estimate $300,000 – 400,000

Alexander Calder Necklace, Estimate $400,000 – 600,000

Alexander Calder Necklace, Estimate $400,000 – 600,000

Alexander Calder silver brooch, 1942, sold at auction for $ 23,500

Alexander Calder silver brooch, 1942, sold at auction for $ 23,500

Anjelica Huston in necklace Calder 'Jealous husband', 1940, a collection of Metropolitan Museum of Art

Anjelica Huston in necklace Calder ‘Jealous husband’, 1940, a collection of Metropolitan Museum of Art

Bracelet made from brass wire by Alexander Calder, 1945

Bracelet made from brass wire by Alexander Calder, 1945

Bracelets, 1940

Bracelets, 1940

Calder jewelry

Alexander Calder spiral jewellery

Earring made of silver and steel wire, circa 1942. Estimate $60,000 – 80,000

Earring made of silver and steel wire, circa 1942. Estimate $60,000 – 80,000

Alexander Calder spiral jewellery

Gerard Philippe with Jeanne Moreau in a bracelet from Alexander Calder ‘Nuclea’, 1952

Alexander Calder spiral jewellery

Margaret Schevill in a necklace made from brass wire by Alexander Calder

Alexander Calder spiral jewellery

Molly Ringwald at the Oscars. It’s a huge honor to wear his jewelry. I feel very honored, she said

Alexander Calder spiral jewellery

Alexander Calder spiral jewellery. Necklace and ring. Sold at auction Christie’s, New York, May 12, 2011 for $ 506.500

Alexander Calder spiral jewellery

Necklace, 1940, sold at Sotheby’s, May 11, 2005 for $ 318.400

Ring created in 1930. Gift to a friend, the painter Joan Miro

Ring created in 1930. Gift to a friend, the painter Joan Miro

sources:

vintage-cl0set.livejournal.com/59546
nytimes.com
sothebys.com